"Not My Tick To Bear offers a rugged single-pitch trad climb in Big Thompson Canyon defined by variable crack sizes, delicate flakes, and demanding gear placements. This route calls for steady hands and a bold mindset, rewarding climbers with a raw, adventurous experience near Estes Park, Colorado."
Not My Tick To Bear carves a gritty, no-frills line high above the Big Thompson Canyon, challenging climbers who crave the tactile, unpredictable terrain of classic trad routes. This single-pitch climb stretches roughly 60 feet through a crack system that demands versatility: fingers, hands, fists, and a touch of offwidth combine to create a sequence that keeps you searching for holds and placements. The route’s character comes from its rough edges and precarious flakes—not for those seeking polished perfection, but for those willing to embrace adventure climbing’s spontaneous nature.
Set within Mary’s Bust Area at Tick Rock, the climb starts with a left-leaning crack that opens dramatically before reaching the main vertical splitter. The move off the initial line onto this crack has a delicate balance, challenging your footwork and commitment. A notable feature is a large chockstone wedged firmly in place, providing a stable but unusual hold in the heart of the climb. From here, the crack occasionally softens into inviting edges that offer relief without sacrificing the gritty texture of the rock.
Midway up, the wall tilts near vertical, testing endurance and technique. Wild, slender flakes branch off to the right, tempting the intrepid with unstable options that require confidence and judgment. Near the summit, a somewhat mobile chockstone adds a final layer of complexity—steady enough for a carefully placed foot but demanding respect.
For those wanting more, the top offers an option to continue past the obvious crack into terrain of easy jugs, extending the pitch to the pinnacle’s summit. Descending can be approached by downclimbing roughly twenty feet back to the main crack’s split, or setting up a rappel, allowing flexibility based on skill and conditions. The walk-off down the backside involves slippery slabs that require deliberate footing and awareness.
Protection is a varied collection including #1, #0.75, #0.5, #2, and #3.5 Camalots; #9 hex; red and orange Aliens; and medium wires. Anchor setups typically lean on #1 and #4 Camalots accompanied by green Alien and medium wires. Given the route’s fragile flakes and wobbly chockstones, placements demand careful assessment and sometimes creative thinking, rewarding hands-on gear experience.
Approaching the climb leads through the rugged landscape of Big Thompson Canyon, a region defined by sharp angles, dense forest patches, and sweeping canyon views that hint at the wildness behind every climb. Climbers heading here should bring solid footwear for the approach, be ready for variable weather, and pack water to stay hydrated under the sun-exposed walls.
This route is not a gentle introduction but an invitation to test your trad skills in a setting that holds nothing back. The rocks push back, the flakes dare your trust, and the crack shifts beneath your fingers, imprinting every movement with a sense of raw adventure. It’s a climb that rewards attentiveness and patience, offering a memorable experience where every hold and placement matters.
Beware of the loose flakes and wobbly chockstones that add unpredictability—always test every placement carefully. Downclimbing from the top involves slippery slabs with limited footing; when in doubt, rappel for safety.
Keep the belayer down and right of the climb for protection behind the big flake.
Watch carefully for fragile flakes and unstable chockstones along the route.
Plan for a slippery walk-off down the backside; sturdy approach shoes recommended.
Consider lowering less confident climbers off the front to avoid tricky downclimbing sections.
Essential gear includes a range of Camalots from #0.5 to #3.5, #9 hex, red and orange Aliens, and medium wires—placements can be tricky around flakes and chockstones, so bring a diverse rack and be prepared for creative protection.
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