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Northwest Passage at Joshua Tree National Park

Twentynine Palms, California USA
trad
desert granite
runout
single pitch
slab
aged bolts
medium cams
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Northwest Passage
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Northwest Passage offers a focused single-pitch trad challenge on Joshua Tree’s iconic Gilligan's Island face. With its mix of worn bolts and slab climbing, it demands precision and measured boldness from climbers ready to tackle exposed desert granite."

Northwest Passage at Joshua Tree National Park

Northwest Passage carves a compact but intriguing line on the striking Gilligan's Island face within the arid expanse of Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch trad climb, sitting at a challenging 5.10a R, begins by threading under a massive boulder just left of the main face. The distinctive red-stained arete serves as a beacon, guiding climbers into a sequence of moves that test both mental focus and physical finesse. The initial moves demand careful navigation past three bolts, each telling a story of age and exposure—two worn Leeper Hangers mark the way, and the second bolt reveals a small crack, adding a subtle layer of complexity to the ascent. These bolts hold vital but limited security, hence the "R" (runout) rating that warns of the runout potential and emphasizes the need for precise gear placements and solid clipping technique.

Beyond the bolts, the route transitions into a slab section that requires balanced footwork and steady handholds across an inviting yet exposed surface. The rock here shines with the classic Joshua Tree grit—coarse and textured—inviting you to feel each hold distinctly as you traverse this stretch. The climb covers roughly 60 feet, rewarding careful movement with sweeping views over the Wonderland of Rocks. The granite’s warm hues contrast with vast blue skies, punctuated by distant desert plants that stand quietly under the sun’s steady gaze.

Approaching Northwest Passage involves a short walk along rocky terrain, descending from the Wonderland North approach. The access involves threading beneath a prominent boulder, a unique gateway offering a quiet moment before the climb’s intensity unfolds. Protection consists predominantly of four bolts with intermittent placements for med- to hand-sized cams, requiring climbers to pack a modest rack focused on these sizes. Anchoring at the top demands attention, as the fixed bolts show their years, and adequate gear awareness ensures safe passage.

This route is a solid choice for climbers comfortable with moderate runouts and ready to engage with Joshua Tree’s distinct style—where boldness meets classic slab climbing. Timing your ascent in the cooler early morning hours or late afternoon can be a boon, as the wall faces southwest and mid-day sun can bake the rock, making a physical challenge even tougher. Water, sun protection, and layered clothing remain paramount in this desert environment, where weather swings can be sharp.

The descent is straightforward though requires focus: climbers typically downclimb back to the boulder underneath or execute a short rappel. Always check your anchors for stability and remember that desert terrain can shift unexpectedly, especially along scrubby, loose sections. Northwest Passage stands as a compact test of composure, soloing spirit, and refined trad skills tucked within a famously rugged playground. Gear up smart, plan strategically, and this climb rewards with a slice of Joshua Tree’s distinctive character and challenge.

Climber Safety

The first three bolts show signs of wear and have unusual hangers, with the fourth bolt lacking a hanger entirely; this demands vigilant clipping and solid back-up gear. The runout sections increase fall potential, and the rocky desert approach can be uneven underfoot—exercise caution when approaching and descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Access the climb by tunneling under the large boulder to the left of Gilligan's Island face.

Expect aged and somewhat fragile bolts—clip carefully and place secure gear placements.

Start early or late to avoid the intense midday sun on the southwest-facing wall.

Prepare for a straightforward rappel or controlled downclimb to reach the base safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a R grade reflects both the technical slab climbing and the runout nature of the bolt placements. The protection feels sparse across sections, which bumps the mental challenge despite the moderate physical difficulty. Climbers familiar with Joshua Tree trad routes will recognize this as a route requiring both confidence on slabs and careful gear placements, somewhat stiffer than a typical 5.10a due to protection considerations.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack emphasizing medium to hand-sized cams alongside quickdraws for the limited bolts. Be prepared for aged Leeper Hangers on the first three bolts, with the fourth bolt lacking a hanger. Anchor gear should accommodate medium to hand-sized protection placements.

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Tags

trad
desert granite
runout
single pitch
slab
aged bolts
medium cams