HomeClimbingNorthwest Face

Northwest Face at Fourth Buttress

Boulder, Colorado United States
crack climbing
trad
single pitch
boulder canyon
multi-line variation
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Northwest Face
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A classic Boulder Canyon climb, Northwest Face offers a single pitch of engaging crack climbing with solid protection and stunning views, perfect for trad climbers stepping into exposed granite."

Northwest Face at Fourth Buttress

The Northwest Face on Fourth Buttress stands as a compelling introduction to traditional climbing within Boulder Canyon’s rugged landscape. This single-pitch route engages with clean, well-defined cracks that invite both novice and experienced climbers to test their crack techniques while enjoying Boulder’s iconic granite. Starting where the water pipe meets the tunnel mouth, you’ll launch yourself across a horizontal crack—requiring a solid #0.5 Friend for protection. The granite here has a purposeful texture, offering confident holds as you traverse into the heart of the route.

The climb then channels you upward along a sustained crack system that splits vertically, demanding steady footwork and deliberate hand jams. This section flows into an accessible choice: either swing right on a moderate 5.6 ramp or challenge yourself left on a more demanding 5.9 variation with a #5a Cam placement. Whichever path you pick, both converge onto a series of inviting 5.8 cracks leading to the summit, where sweeping views of the Boulder Flatirons reward your efforts.

Approach the climb in the cooler morning hours to avoid the granite overheating, and keep your rack stocked with a standard range up to #2.5 Friends. Boulder Creek runs nearby, and if you’re feeling adventurous, the tunnel beckons for a wade-through on your descent, adding a refreshing element to the experience. The route’s walk-off descent is straightforward, but stay attentive to loose blocks on the scramble back.

Local rhythm pulses through the area, with pine-scented breezes and sunlit granite that glows warmly in the daylight. This climb strikes a balance between accessible challenge and classic crack climbing, making it a fulfilling objective for anyone looking to engage directly with Boulder’s climbing heritage. The protection placements are reliable but demand thoughtful gear selection—this isn’t a route for the ill-prepared. The route’s character and natural flow fuse practicality with the reward of solid granite cracks and striking canyon views.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of loose blocks toward the top and the walk-off scramble. The tunnel may be wet or slippery, so approach with care when wading through. Gear placements on the initial traverse require attention for solid protection.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb cool granite and avoid the afternoon sun.

Bring a full range of cams, especially sizes from #0.5 to #2.5 for secure protection.

Check for loose blocks near the top and on the walk-off descent.

Consider wading through the tunnel on your way back for a refreshing finish.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.8, the route offers a choice that bumps difficulty slightly if you take the left variation at 5.9 with a tricky #5a placement. Overall, the grade feels approachable with solid placements, making it a stout yet accessible climb. Compared to other Boulder Canyon routes, it sits comfortably in the lower-intermediate range but remains engaging for all levels.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to #2.5 Friends recommended. A #0.5 Friend provides key protection crossing the initial horizontal crack, and a #5a Cam is useful if taking the left 5.9 variation.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Northwest Face and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

crack climbing
trad
single pitch
boulder canyon
multi-line variation