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Northern Unnamed at Duncan's Ridge

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
finger crack
overhang crux
small gear
single pitch
front range
technical jam
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Northern Unnamed
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Northern Unnamed delivers a punch-packed 40-foot trad pitch with a technical jam off the deck and a tricky left-facing corner finish. Perfect for climbers honing crack skills or scouting quick routes near Fort Collins."

Northern Unnamed at Duncan's Ridge

Northern Unnamed on Duncan's Ridge offers an immediate test of technique and nerve, starting with a challenging jam past an overhang that sets the tone for this short but intense climb. From the ground, you might underestimate its subtle complexity, but once on the wall, the route reveals itself as an intricate play of balance and power. After beating the initial bulge, the climb sweeps right around a striking boulder, demanding precise footwork and controlled body positioning. The finish pushes you through a small bulge into a left-facing corner, where climbers choose between threading a finger seam or leveraging a solid flake to reach the anchor. At just 40 feet, this single-pitch route packs a big punch in a compact space.

Located within Duncan's Ridge above Horsetooth Reservoir near Fort Collins, Colorado, this climb gives you a chance to engage with the rugged terrain of the Front Range foothills. The rock is raw and textured, offering reliable friction, though you’ll want to be alert for a few loose blocks near the top when setting protection. The entire experience demands a confident ability to place small gear—this route favors a precise rack with nuts and cams on the smaller end, extending up to a #4 Friend and a #4 stopper. Anchors are accessible in the upper cracks but beware of some shiftier blocks.

The approach requires a short hike from the trailhead with some uneven footing and light brush, so appropriate footwear and steady footing are essential. Early morning or late afternoon offer the best climbing conditions, with sunlight warming the rock but not baking it. The wall faces a direction that catches early sun, making it ideal for temperate spring and fall days. Due to the route’s exposure and crack features, climbers find this a rewarding technical challenge that invites both those refining their crack climbing skills and those looking for a quick but satisfying pitch.

Whether you're coming from Fort Collins or touring the Horsetooth Reservoir region, Northern Unnamed stands out as a solid trad route with its blend of straightforward protection, physical moves, and compact adventure. Prepare to focus on jamming techniques and trust your gear placements. It’s not an over-the-top endurance test but keeps your attention on fundamental trad skills from start to finish. Keep your rack detailed, your head in the game, and you’ll get through its cruxy sequence with a new respect for this often-overlooked climb.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant when placing gear near the anchor; loose blocks can shift unexpectedly. The initial overhang also demands precise movement—hesitation here can increase stress and risk of falls.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Horsetooth Reservoir trailhead; expect 15-20 minutes on uneven terrain.

Use early morning light for optimal temperature and dry rock.

Focus on controlled jamming techniques to navigate the overhang crux efficiently.

Double-check all anchor placements at the top due to a few movable blocks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating feels fairly true to form with a crux that demands solid crack technique and body positioning. It leans toward the easier side of 5.8 but requires confidence off the ground. Compared to other nearby Front Range climbs, it’s less sustained but no less demanding in specific technical moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack emphasizing small cams and stoppers, including sizes down to a #4 Friend and #4 stopper. The route has ample cracks for protection but watch for some loose blocks near the anchor area.

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Tags

finger crack
overhang crux
small gear
single pitch
front range
technical jam