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North Wide Crack at Jamcrack Spire: A Classic Trad Challenge in the Flatirons

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
exposed
single pitch
classic
trad protection
arete
Flatirons
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
North Wide Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The North Wide Crack on Jamcrack Spire offers an accessible yet technique-driven trad line through a series of steep handcracks and exposed sections. This moderate 5.8 climb blends crack climbing with face moves that invite a refined approach to protection and route selection."

North Wide Crack at Jamcrack Spire: A Classic Trad Challenge in the Flatirons

Climbing the North Wide Crack on Jamcrack Spire offers a straightforward yet continuously engaging trad experience set within the raw grandeur of Colorado’s Flatirons. Situated on the less-traveled southern aspect of Jamcrack Spire, this route invites climbers to engage with a steep left-leaning handcrack that demands steady technique and attention to protection. Beginning about 25 meters down and left from the spire’s northwest face, the climb establishes itself immediately on a crack roughly 2.5 inches wide, guiding you upward through increasingly wider sections. The effort fluctuates between moderate 5.6 moves and more committed 5.8 segments, creating a satisfying blend of smooth jamming and precise hand placements.

As the crack widens, climbers shift slightly right onto a second crack system that leads toward the distinctive arete to your right. Here, the line branches: you can either follow a sequence of intertwined hand cracks rated at 5.8 or directly ascend the exposed face at 5.7, which offers less protection and a heightened sense of exposure. The summit of the spire rewards with wide views and a moment to breathe in the rugged vibe of Boulder’s alpine classic granite.

The protection on this route supports confidence and safety with a standard rack extending to 4 inches. Still, to minimize runouts, it’s wise to carry extra 2.5 and 3-inch cams along with plenty of long slings to navigate tricky placements safely around aretes and crack intersections. The rock quality is generally solid, though shared sections with the nearby Right For Grapenuts route (rated 5.9+) demand cautious route-finding for climbers uncertain of their line choices.

Approaching the climb brings the character of the Flatirons into sharp focus: the trail is well-maintained but steep, cutting through mixed forest patches and occasional scree slopes that test your footing before you reach the base. Given its moderate length of roughly 120 feet, climbers can expect this pitch to be a manageable half-day mission. Early morning starts are recommended to avoid afternoon heat or mountain thunderstorms that can accumulate quickly in the Colorado foothills.

This route stands out by blending technical cracks with exposed face climbing, making it a solid choice for trad climbers refining crack skills and moving into exposure management. The descent is straightforward, involving a walk-off on the backside of the spire, but attention is required for loose rock and narrow trails.

Whether planning a first visit or returning for a quick send, the North Wide Crack at Jamcrack Spire is a rewarding outing that tests your crack climbing under ever-changing sunlight and shadow. With reliable protection opportunities and a moderate grade, it encourages confidence while offering enough challenge to keep your focus sharp. Remember to pack hydration, sturdy footwear, and a solid rack, and prepare to meet the rock on its own terms—direct, dynamic, and unyielding.

Climber Safety

Watch carefully for loose rock on the approach trail and around the arete section. The exposed portions on the upper face demand cautious moves and solid gear placement to prevent long falls.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good smear and crack ability.

Carry plenty of water; the approach is steep and can be strenuous.

Bring long slings to protect delicate moves near the arete.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, this climb feels well-graded with no artificially softened moves. The cruxes are moderate but sustained, requiring solid crack technique and mental composure on the exposed face section. Compared to other Flatirons routes, it lands comfortably in the moderate category, making it an excellent stepping stone from beginner crack climbs to more committing multi-pitch adventures.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack with cams up to 4 inches is essential, with extra 2.5- and 3-inch units recommended to reduce runouts. Long slings will help manage rope drag around aretes and crack intersections.

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Tags

hand crack
exposed
single pitch
classic
trad protection
arete
Flatirons