HomeClimbingNorth West Arete, AKA Nimbostratus

North West Arete, AKA Nimbostratus

Idyllwild, California United States
overhanging crack
arete
trad
alpine
single pitch
lichen-covered
3 inch cams
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
North West Arete, AKA Nimbostratus
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"North West Arete challenges climbers with its overhanging crack and jagged green arete on Cloud Ripper Tower. A solitary pitch of alpine trad climbing that’s as raw as it is promising, this route rewards precision and steady gear placements."

North West Arete, AKA Nimbostratus

Rising sharply from the rugged face of Cloud Ripper Tower, the North West Arete, also known as Nimbostratus, offers a striking alpine trad climb that tests both skill and resolve. This route opens with a cool, overhanging crack system that demands tight, controlled moves to gain purchase on edges softened by patches of juggy lichen. The climb transitions into a green-tinged, jagged arete that unfolds over approximately 200 feet of vertical rock. While not the crown jewel of the formation, its raw character and potential for improvement create a unique challenge for climbers ready to engage with a route in the midst of evolution. Expect a route that, with increased use, will shed its lichen veil to reveal solid rock and cleaner holds.

Located in Southern California’s iconic Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks climbing area, the North West Arete sits in a wild zone often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors. Here, the air hums with the faint rush of desert winds, and the rock face feels alive — daring you to test your footwork and gear placements along its vertical canvas. Despite the modest single pitch, climbers must treat each move with care: the crack demands precise finger jams supported by a standard rack extending up to 3 inches in cam size. Protection is straightforward but critical, as placements require attention to detail in this alpine environment.

The approach is manageable but calls for preparation. A trek through dusty trails and scattered rock debris leads to the base, with GPS coordinates marking the way at 33.75984 latitude and -116.67601 longitude. This remote corner of Cloud Ripper Tower sits within climbing terrain that values careful planning—adequate water, sun protection, and steady footwear are essentials. Early morning ascents benefit from filtered sunlight, while afternoon rays warm the granite face, offering different challenges depending on the season. Post-climb, the descent is direct but demands focus as loose scree can push footing to the edge.

Whether you’re a trad climber honing alpine skills or an adventure seeker chasing a less-traveled line, North West Arete’s solid rating of 5.10a invites you to engage intimately with rock that is as challenging as it is rewarding. With each ascent, the route’s personality sharpens, promising a cleaner, more polished face for years to come.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of lichen-covered sections which can obscure loose rock or fragile placements. The approach and descent include loose scree that can compromise footing—use deliberate steps to maintain balance.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid midday heat on the exposed granite.

Inspect gear placements carefully—some cracks have lichen that can hide loose rock.

Approach uses established trails but watch for loose scree near the base.

Bring plenty of water and sun protection; shade is minimal on the face.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10a, North West Arete offers a solid mid-level challenge with a subtle crux in the overhanging crack. The grade feels accurate, combining technical finger jams with the physical demands of sustained vertical movement. It compares well with other 5.10a routes in the Tahquitz area but stands out due to its alpine environment and evolving rock conditions.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack with cams up to 3 inches is essential. Protection placements are straightforward but demand attention, particularly within the crack system where secure jams hold the key to advancing safely.

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Tags

overhanging crack
arete
trad
alpine
single pitch
lichen-covered
3 inch cams