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North 40 at Devil's Head: Classic Trad Climbing in Colorado

Morrison, Colorado United States
wide crack
trad
single pitch
granite
beginner friendly
Colorado
Devil's Head
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
North 40
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"North 40 is a short, accessible trad climb featuring a wide crack on Devil’s Head’s granite face. Its moderate 5.8- rating makes it ideal for climbers refining crack technique in a tranquil Colorado setting."

North 40 at Devil's Head: Classic Trad Climbing in Colorado

Just beyond the Devil’s Head parking area, North 40 offers a straightforward but compelling trad climb that beckons with an inviting wide crack running the length of its 40-foot face. This route presents a purist’s challenge: uncomplicated yet rewarding, demanding precise hand jams and confident footwork. The climb's defining moment awaits near the top where the crack opens into a wider seam, shifting the effort into a delicate balance of power and technique. Climbers will find their fingers cupping and palms pressing against solid granite, the rock’s rough texture gripping their touch as they ascend beneath an open sky that holds the expanse of Colorado’s rugged backcountry.

Located within the quieter sectors of Devil's Head, this route balances accessibility with a sense of wilderness. The ascent follows a clean crack system that feels both approachable for those stepping up to multi-pitch trad for the first time and engaging for seasoned climbers polishing their crack skills. Protection is straightforward—a standard rack including cams up to #4—the route’s natural features encourage gear placements that feel secure but require attention to spacing, especially as you near the bulge near the summit. The bolted anchors on the top provide peace of mind when finishing the climb, allowing for a safe and swift descent.

The approach is brief, a gentle walk from the well-kept Devil’s Head parking lot, passing through a forested slope dotted with pines and the occasional chorus of local birds. This short hike prepares the body and sharpens the senses before stepping onto the rock’s textured canvas. With an elevation gain modest but present, climbers should plan for cooler mornings and pack water to stay hydrated—the exposed granite slab can radiate heat in the afternoon sun.

Ideal for a half-day outing, North 40 sits in a section of Colorado’s South Platte area where granite outcrops invite exploration. This particular routine pairs well with other nearby climbs at Devil’s Head, making it easy to string together multiple routes for a full day of climbing. Given its moderate grade, it’s perfect for those bridging the gap between gym climbing and outdoor trad experience, offering both a test and a taste of real rock.

Planning your visit, keep the weather in mind—the wall faces northeast, benefitting from morning shade but warming up in the later hours, so early starts optimize comfort and grip. Footwear with sticky rubber and gloves or tape for finger protection are recommended to manage abrasion on the rough granite. The descent is straightforward with bolted anchors for rappel or a careful scramble down the vehicle trail, so maintain caution especially after rain or snow when the rock may be slick.

In all, North 40 is a concise climb that encapsulates the joy of crack climbing while providing a practical, manageable adventure in the heart of Colorado’s outdoor offerings. It’s an ideal choice for anyone eager to step outside the gym and experience real stone, set against the vast openness and quiet strength of the South Platte landscape.

Climber Safety

Watch for runouts near the top wider crack section where gear placements can be spaced out; stay focused on secure placements. The approach trail is short but rocky and can become slippery after rain or snowmelt.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the northeast-facing wall.

Bring tape or gloves to protect your hands from abrasion on the rough granite.

Hydrate well on approach, as afternoon sun can heat the rock and surrounding area.

Use cautious gear placements near the crack’s widest section to avoid long falls.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- rating feels fair with a distinct crux near the crack’s widening at the top. While the lower section flows smoothly with straightforward jams, the upper segment demands more precise footwork and confidence in gear. It's approachable but keeps the climber alert to technique and protection decisions.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack with cams up to size #4; larger sizes can help reduce runouts near the wider section. The top anchors are bolted for secure rappels.

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Tags

wide crack
trad
single pitch
granite
beginner friendly
Colorado
Devil's Head