"Noondance is a steep, well-protected single-pitch climb on Suicide Rock’s south face. Short but demanding, this 40-foot granite route blends fixed bolts and trad gear for a compact desert adventure."
Noondance presents an intense, concentrated experience on Suicide Rock's south face, where steep granite rises sharply underfoot. This brief but spirited single-pitch climb demands attention with its smooth, well-protected wall that invites confident footwork and precise gear placements. Although the route covers just 40 feet, each move counts as you navigate a series of delicate jams and face holds that test both technique and nerve. The granite here feels alive—solid yet tactile, offering reliable friction that encourages climbers to engage fully with the rock.
The approach weaves through desert brush and rocky slabs, edging closer to Suicide Rock’s dramatic outcrop where this face clings above. From the base, the sun-drenched slab glows warmly, offering an inviting climb especially during cooler mornings and late afternoons when the angle of sunlight softens the heat. Expect a moderate trail for about 15 minutes from the main parking area, where the terrain shifts between loose stones and hardy yucca plants that seem to guard the path.
Protection on Noondance blends fixed bolts with opportunities for small to medium-sized gear placements, giving the route a hybrid character. Climbers will find three reliable bolts spaced thoughtfully, with gear needed for supplemental security, particularly in the lower sections. This mix demands a rack tuned for quick draws and a handful of cams—think #0.3 to #1 for peace of mind. The bolt placements feel solid, but the protection intervals require careful attention, especially if you prefer minimizing runouts.
For those eyeing Noondance, timing matters: early spring through fall is ideal to avoid summer’s dry heat, and wind usually lets up by midday. Footwear with sticky rubber pays dividends on the granite’s slick edges. Stay hydrated—the dry desert air and sun exposure can add up quickly. The climb’s short length makes it perfect as a warm-up or for a lightning-speed tick on a longer day at Suicide Rock’s extensive climbing offering.
Unwind after the climb where the panoramic view stretches across rugged canyons peppered with resilient scrub and distant peaks. The rock beneath your feet might be compact, but the sense of place here is wide open and expansive. Noondance proves that sometimes the briefest routes pack the most focused adventure and demand respect in every move.
Whether you’re refining your face climbing skills or chasing a quick, trad-tech challenge, Noondance delivers with a blend of practical protection, stellar granite, and approachable exposure. It’s a direct line that welcomes intermediate climbers ready to step into the classic desert slab style with confidence.
While bolts provide good anchors, some sections require careful gear placements—don’t rely solely on fixed bolts. Loose rock on the approach calls for attentive footing, and the granite face can become slick during wet or early morning dew conditions.
Start early to avoid the desert heat and catch the gentler morning sun.
Sticky-soled climbing shoes help on the smooth granite face.
Stay hydrated; shade is sparse along the approach and climb.
Watch footing on the trail’s loose rock sections during the approach.
The route features three bolts combined with a few gear placements. Bring a standard trad rack with small to medium cams (#0.3 to #1) and quickdraws to clip the bolts efficiently.
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