"A demanding sixteen-pitch trad route that winds through slabs and grooves high on Marble Canyon’s cliffs. Expect sustained exposure, sharp rock transitions, and a commitment to solid anchor-building on this raw northwestern big wall challenge."
None But The Brave rises sharply within Marble Canyon’s rugged Interior Plateau, offering climbers an imposing trad experience that blends technical slab and groove climbing with sustained exposure. Starting from the base, the route unwraps over sixteen pitches that demand steady focus and resourceful gear work across 1,300 feet of vertical challenge. The approach through Marble Canyon sets the tone—deep pine shadows contrast against sun-washed granite, while the chorus of wildlife punctuates the quiet wilderness. Early pitches feature a rhythm of slabs and grooves, each section demanding precise footwork and solid protection to maintain momentum. As you push higher, the rock’s quality shifts—some stretches ask for heightened vigilance due to rough, loose patches and thin pro placements. Here, the climb veers left from a prominent corner to follow a distinct line of weakness, testing both your route-finding and commitment.
Marble Canyon’s characteristic weather can quickly sway the climb’s difficulty, and early morning starts are essential to avoid afternoon sun or shifting winds. The long haul to the upper slabs offers expansive views of the plateau’s sculpted contours, where the light plays softly on the cliffs and distant ridges invite quiet reflection. Protection demands a well-rounded rack: doubles in cams ranging from 1 to 3 inches, extending up to 4 inches, coupled with a double set of nuts provides security on varied terrain. Belays are sparse and sometimes questionable, so climbers must be prepared to build solid anchors under challenging conditions.
Retreat options are limited above the mid-section; anchors suitable for rappelling are scarce, requiring commitment once past certain points. This reality injects tension into the ascent, reinforcing the need for thorough planning and confidence in your climbing choices. The route’s grade of 5.9 X signals this is no casual outing—while the technical cruxes are moderate, the consequence of a fall demands both respect and calculated risk management. Descending calls for careful navigation of exposed ledges and a well-rehearsed rappel sequence where possible. For those ready to meet the challenge, None But The Brave rewards with an immersive northwestern climb that stitches together raw landscape and pure granite, inviting a climb that tests endurance, skill, and resolve.
Retreat is difficult above the central ledges due to inadequate anchors for rappelling. Loose rock and variable protection mean careful route-finding and anchor-building skills are critical for safety. Avoid climbing after rain or in wet conditions, as slabs become dangerously slick.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun and unpredictable winds.
Check weather forecasts thoroughly—conditions can change rapidly in the Interior Plateau.
Practice solid anchor construction before heading high on the route; natural belays are often unreliable.
Prepare for limited retreat options above mid-height; commit once past key ledges.
A comprehensive rack with doubles of cams from 1 to 3 inches, extending to a 4-inch cam, paired with a double set of nuts is essential. Prepare for varied placements, with sections demanding careful pro due to questionable belays.
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