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Nobody Wants Your Damn Sheep

Squamish, Canada
right-facing corner
technical start
single pitch
trad
crux
bolt-protected traverse
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Nobody Wants Your Damn Sheep
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A sharp and technical single-pitch trad climb on Gonzales Creek Wall that challenges with a bold start and opens into moderate moves above. Perfect for climbers looking to push their crack skills amid the rugged granite of British Columbia’s Squamish region."

Nobody Wants Your Damn Sheep

Nobody Wants Your Damn Sheep stands as a gritty, straightforward introduction to the challenging edges of Gonzales Creek Wall. This single-pitch trad climb offers a compelling balance between technical moves and manageable terrain, rewarding climbers with a rewarding experience that tests both finesse and mental composure. The climb begins with a demanding start into a compact right-facing corner, forcing climbers to engage with precise footwork and confident hand placements right away. This initial sequence, while brief, sets the tone — sharp movements are necessary to surmount the tight crux and find purchase on the less-than-obvious holds.

After conquering the corner, the route relaxes into a stretch of moderate climbing leading to a spacious ledge, offering a brief respite and an opportunity to shake out before the final push. Here, the rock’s texture changes, becoming more open as you traverse a short section to the right, carefully working past a single bolt that marks the transition to the finish. The anchor sits exposed on the face, providing a panoramic view over the Gwangan Creek, allowing climbers to savor the accomplishment and the surrounding quiet wilderness.

Situated in the heart of British Columbia's Squamish area, this route threads through granite that feels alive under your fingertips. The rock radiates subtle warmth, hinting at the environmental stories etched by years of weather and usage. The Gonzales Creek Wall tends toward the shaded side in afternoon light, making morning ascents ideal during warmer months to avoid the damp chill common later in the day.

Protection ranges across solid slots for medium-sized cams (#0 Metolius to #2 BD) with a couple of smaller pieces to lock into tighter placements, supplemented by a lone bolt guarding the upper traverse. This blend requires trad climbers to carry an assortment of gear and maintain a sharp eye for trustworthy placements, especially in the crux section where the available pro is sparse but crucial.

Approach is relatively direct, following a forested trail that climbs steadily through graffiti-dusted granite boulders and thick forest patches. Plan on 15 to 20 minutes to reach the base, crossing occasional wet roots and loose rock. Route finding is straightforward here, but early morning moisture can make footing slippery, so careful steps are necessary.

For anyone prepared to test their technique and stamina on a short but potent climb, Nobody Wants Your Damn Sheep shines as a punchy line with just enough complexity to feel earned. Its approachable length belies the intensity of those opening moves, while the moderate terrain above offers balance and space to enjoy both the climb and the raw beauty of this lesser-traveled Squamish wall.

Climber Safety

The route's initial corner requires precise foot and hand placements on sometimes narrow, less featured holds. Protection here is limited to smaller cams, so staying confident and placing gear carefully is essential. The approach trail can be slick with moss or moisture—proceed with caution to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in the cooler morning light before the wall shifts to shade in the afternoon.

Bring a full rack with cams from small to mid-sized (#0 to #2 BD) to cover all protection needs.

Watch for slippery patches on the approach trail, especially after rain or early mornings.

Be prepared for a technical crux right off the ground; warm up accordingly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, Nobody Wants Your Damn Sheep delivers a solid test of technical crack climbing right from the start. The grade feels true to its rating with a tight, physical crux section that demands focus. Climbers used to classic Squamish cracks will find this a worthy challenge, where smaller pro placements add to the mental game.

Gear Requirements

Protection relies on a mix of Metolius #0 to Black Diamond #2 cams, with a couple of smaller pieces bridging tricky placements. One fixed bolt guards the traverse near the top, but the bulk of protection demands solid trad rack skills.

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Tags

right-facing corner
technical start
single pitch
trad
crux
bolt-protected traverse