"No Sympathy is a sharp, one-pitch trad climb in Quebec’s Montagne d'Argent. This 5.10d route challenges climbers with a technical left exit variation from Pop Corn, combining solid crack climbing with strategic protection on rugged granite."
No Sympathy offers climbers a focused, one-pitch adventure tucked into the rugged expanse of Montagne d'Argent in Quebec’s Laurentians. This 85-foot route presents a trad challenge rated at 5.10d, drawing attention with its distinct left exit variation from the nearby Pop Corn climb. The wall, riddled with five well-spaced bolts complemented by a standard rappel anchor, invites those ready to manage their own protection with precision and calm. The rock’s texture speaks of the region’s ancient granite, sporting sharp edges and pockets that demand careful hand placements and solid footwork.
Approaching the route, expect a moderate hike through forest trails that shift from soft pine needles underfoot to scattered granite boulders, leading to a belay station perched with views over the Laurentian hills. Ambient sounds of rustling leaves and distant bird calls frame your arrival, while a crisp breeze tests your focus on the granite face.
No Sympathy’s 5.10d rating carries a definite bite. The crux lies in the route’s sustained sequences requiring confident crack and face climbing combined with well-judged protection placements. Unlike more polished sport climbs, placing gear here demands both physical and mental commitment—making it an engaging step beyond the familiar. The climb rewards the careful with a sense of accomplishment in navigating natural features rather than relying on fixed hardware alone.
Gear-wise, the route’s five bolts provide occasional security, but the onus is on your trad rack. Medium to large cams fill the stretch well, and a range of nuts will secure the crack sections. The left exit variation makes the protection feel more tactical, enhancing the need to know your gear and remain deliberate between placements.
The timing for travel is best in late spring through early fall, with midday climbs offering a mix of sun and shade along the relatively east-facing wall. Be mindful of wet conditions which can turn the granite slippery and increase hazards on approach trails. Descending via the left belay rappel anchor is straightforward but requires attention—rappelling too quickly risks rope abrasion on uneven rock edges.
Local tips include arriving early to avoid afternoon crowds, double-checking rack completeness before the route, and wearing shoes with solid edging for the slick granite. Staying hydrated is a must; Montagne d’Argent’s open summit area allows for cooling winds but exposes climbers to sun during peak hours.
For trad climbers looking to blend technical demands with accessible wilderness, No Sympathy is a smart choice. It captures the essence of Quebec’s climbing spirit: rocky, real, and quietly demanding, yet rewarding those who meet its challenge with patience and skill.
Watch for slippery rock after rain and be cautious while rappelling from the left belay anchor to avoid rope abrasion on rough granite edges. The route offers limited fixed gear, so secure placements are essential.
Arrive early to secure a quiet window on the route.
Wear climbing shoes with firm edging for granite precision.
Check weather forecasts to avoid slippery granite after rain.
Hydrate well due to partial sun exposure on the east-facing wall.
The route provides 5 bolts spaced through the climb, plus a standard rappel anchor at the left belay. Trad climbers should bring a rack heavy on medium and large cams with a solid selection of nuts to protect the varied crack and face sections.
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