HomeClimbingNo Leaf Clover

No Leaf Clover at Salt and Pepper Wall

Kananaskis, Canada
sport climbing
single pitch
5.10c
granite
alpine
Kananaskis
bolted
Length: 115 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
No Leaf Clover
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"No Leaf Clover offers a fluid, technical 5.10c climb on Alberta's Salt and Pepper Wall. This single-pitch route combines confident bolted protection with sweeping mountain views for an accessible yet challenging adventure."

No Leaf Clover at Salt and Pepper Wall

No Leaf Clover carves a compelling line on the imposing Salt and Pepper Wall within Kananaskis' Barrier Bluffs, offering climbers a focused dose of sport climbing adrenaline. At just over 115 feet, this single-pitch route extends beyond the familiar anchor of the nearby "Something Wicked" climb, guiding you into a broad, towering corner that demands both technique and steady stamina. The challenge is well measured—no move strays beyond 5.10a after the anchor—allowing for a rhythmic ascent where patience and precision unlock smooth climbing.

From the base, the wall rises sharply, its textured granite inviting confident footwork and thoughtful clip management. As you gain height, the landscape opens up, with sweeping views of the Alberta Rockies stretching into the horizon. The air carries the sharp freshness of the mountain environment, punctuated by rustling tree branches that frame your ascent.

Protection is straightforward and reliable, with 14 bolts spaced along the route bringing security and confidence to every move. However, climbers should prepare for the descent carefully. A lower is the preferred option, but only if you have at least a 70m rope—anything shorter means two rappels with careful attention to rope management.

This route suits climbers who appreciate efficient power and technical skill in equal measure. As the upper corner widens, the climbing opens up, offering a mental break before the final clip and quick finish. With moderate traffic, No Leaf Clover maintains a quiet charm, perfect for those seeking quality climbs without the bustle.

Optimal conditions favor late spring through early fall, when the wall enjoys consistent sunlight that gently warms the granite without baking it. Mornings present the best window for cooler, firmer rock, though afternoon ascents can reward with softer holds in the sun’s glow. Given the alpine setting, weather can shift rapidly; climbers must keep a close eye on forecasts and be ready for sudden changes.

Local expertise points to carrying sturdy shoes with solid edging ability, as the granite demands precise footholds. Hydration is non-negotiable—even on cooler days, the effort can dehydrate quickly. Approaching the route involves a moderate hike with some elevation gain, but the path is well-marked and manageable for most climbers in good shape.

No Leaf Clover is a gateway to the broader Salt and Pepper Wall, whose clean lines and accessible routes make it a prime destination for climbers aiming to blend scenic backdrops with technical challenges. Its single-pitch format invites return visits to refine skills or simply revel in the mountain air and views. For those eager to test their 5.10c mettle on quality bolts amid Alberta’s natural grandeur, this is a route that delivers clarity, adventure, and unforgettable mountain moments.

Climber Safety

Descending requires careful rope management; a 70m rope is essential to avoid multiple rappels. Weather can turn quickly—stay alert for sudden storms or wet rock conditions that increase slip risk. The granite can feel sharp in places, so using tape or skin protection may help prevent abrasion.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Bring a 70m rope to complete the descent in a single rappel.

Start early in the morning for cooler, firmer rock conditions.

Wear climbing shoes with strong edging to navigate the granite texture.

Pack plenty of water, as the alpine sun can dehydrate you quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10c, No Leaf Clover strikes a solid middle ground for strong intermediate climbers. The moves beyond the anchor don't exceed 5.10a, making the route feel approachable once past the initial commitment. The rating feels true to the crux difficulty, with the upper corner offering a sustained but manageable effort. Compared to nearby Sport climbs in the Barrier Bluffs area, it sits comfortably in the spectrum without feeling soft or excessively stiff.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 14 bolts placed for steady protection, No Leaf Clover requires a 70m rope for a single-step rappel; smaller ropes or less rope length will need two rappels. Climbing shoes with careful edging precision are recommended, and your rack can stay minimal since protection is fixed.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
5.10c
granite
alpine
Kananaskis
bolted