Tucked along the imposing Lower Merced River Canyon, New Diversions offers climbers an engaging challenge just steps from the well-trodden trail. This route, carved into the heart of Yosemite National Park, delivers a fresh experience for trad enthusiasts seeking a blend of technical skill and natural rock features. The climb begins with a bold right-facing crack, demanding hands and feet to navigate the broad fissure before nudging right across a textured face dotted with sculpted knobs. The standout move—the route’s defining crux—requires mantling onto a large, wheel-like knob that almost commands your balance and resolve, a move that feels like negotiating with the rock itself. The first pitch ends on a ledge near the arete, where a carefully placed pin is backed up with small cams and wires, giving a reassuring anchor to rest and prepare for pitch two.

Pitch two shifts character, inviting climbers into a more slender crack that gently weaves among knobs before unexpectedly opening wide again—a test of finesse and steady footwork. You'll find yourself absorbing the subtle changes in rock texture and angle, those moments where nature’s sharp edges feel alive beneath your fingers. The second belay is secured with a reliable two-bolt anchor, a clear signal of completion for those who choose to rappel here. Though the terrain eases into easier rock above, the majority opt for a double rappel—possible with a single 60m rope but requiring careful rope management.

The approach to New Diversions is honest and straightforward, with the trail contouring the canyon to bring you within sight of the wall where the climb waits. The rock environment feels alive, the Lower Merced River close enough to hear its steady murmur as it pushes forward through granite giants. The climb's moderate length of 115 feet spreads across two pitches, giving both sustained sequences and moments to breathe in alpine air while perched on the wall.

Gear requirements lean heavily on precision: a single set of cams up to 4 inches plus a shoulder-length sling will cover placements on this route, emphasizing the importance of careful gear selection and reassuring protection where the rock demands respect. The loose rock and knobs here require both focus and a calm approach to balance climbing with safety.

Best tackled in spring through fall, the wall’s orientation offers a balance of sun and shadow throughout the day, depending on the season. Early morning light softens the first pitch, while afternoon shadows cool the upper sections, making timing and weather critical for a comfortable climb. Descending demands attention—two rappels from the upper anchor are standard, with the possibility of walking off above for those familiar with the terrain. Be prepared for uneven footing and the occasional loose stone as you exit.

New Diversions is a compelling choice for climbers seeking a modest but technical route in the heart of Yosemite. It delivers memorable moves, thoughtful protection, and the kind of setting that invites both respect for the rock and excitement for the challenge. Whether you're dialing in your trad skills or hunting for a quality route with striking Yosemite character, this climb holds its own with honest effort and rewarding views.