On the rugged east face of a striking pinnacle along California’s Redwood Coast lies Never Mind The Bollocks, a short but lively sport climb that immediately challenges your perception of the rock. The formation presents a rough, chaotic exterior at first glance—chunks and shelves that might seem more obstacle than opportunity. But squeezed into this wild façade is a spur of climbing that turns those bulges into inviting, giant jugs, offering a playful yet engaging experience for anyone willing to take it on.

This route presents just one pitch, stretching a concise 50 feet, perfect for climbers who want a quick burst of fun without sacrificing technical variety. The climb’s rating, 5.10a, reflects a balance—it’s approachable but does feature moves that demand clean footwork and confident handholds on the bulging face. Most holds appear large and generous, making it a route that can boost your lead climbing confidence while keeping your senses alert to the angles and spacing of the bolts.

Located within the broader Hosswatch sector of Land Of The Lost, this climb thrives on the atmosphere of the redwood-coast wilderness. The air here feels fresher, tinged with salt and pine, and the shifting light filtering through the ancient trees adds layers of texture to the rock. While climbing, you’ll notice the contrast between the raw, rough surface and the steady placement of fixed bolts, allowing you to focus on movement and balance rather than protection concerns.

The climb finishes at a two-bolt anchor with chains, providing a secure point for lowering. For those with adventurous spirits and moderate trad skills, there’s an option to extend the ascent by scrambling up an extra 30 feet of low-angle 5.5 terrain to the summit of the pinnacle. While unprotected, this section rewards you with expansive views of the coast and forest canopy, and an additional two-bolt anchor waiting on the north face—note, there are no rappel rings here, so planning your descent carefully is essential.

Getting to Never Mind The Bollocks means immersing yourself in the remote feel of the Redwood Coast’s less-traveled zones, allowing for solitude often missing in more popular spots. The approach is moderate, threading through shaded forest paths and rocky undergrowth. It barely taxes your legs but does demand attention to footing, especially if moisture has slicked the trail beneath the heavy canopy.

For gear, clip into your standard sport rack with confidence. Four to five bolts protect the route, set generously for smooth clipping without repeated backsteps. The anchors at the top are solid but basic—expect to rely on your own quickdraws and slings rather than fixed rap rings.

Local wisdom encourages arrivals early in the day or late in the afternoon, as the east-facing wall warms quickly in direct sun but can become pleasant and well-lit during these cooler periods. The climb’s short length means you can easily squeeze it into a half-day adventure, paired with other nearby lines or a walk through the expansive woods.

Never Mind The Bollocks has a modest star rating but delivers a memorable contrast: rough rock that dares you to find its rhythm, bolts that guide without dictating, and a quiet corner of the Redwood Coast where every jug invites you forward. Whether you’re sharpening your sport climbing skills or reaching for a new challenge, this little route stands ready, tucked into the wild face of a timeless peak.