5.9, Trad
Miramichi
Canada
"Neutral Tribe invites climbers to a dynamic two-pitch trad route on New Brunswick’s Main Wall. With technical finger and hand cracks leading through a striking overlap and steep finish, this climb offers both challenge and flow in a quiet wilderness setting."
Neutral Tribe offers an inviting two-pitch trad climb on New Brunswick’s iconic Main Wall at McQuirks Mountain. The route begins just left of a towering pine, where a clean finger crack beckons climbers upward. The first pitch delivers 100 feet of technical movement, starting with delicate finger jams that build into a challenging overlap. From there, the climb unfolds into a smooth hand crack that rewards steady rhythm and precise gear placements, culminating at a secure two-bolt anchor for a confident belay.
Pitch two veers slightly right, guiding you through a complex crack system that tests your crack-climbing skills and route-finding. The finale is a steep crack that demands focus and solid technique to surmount the uppermost section and reach the summit anchor. Together, these 200 feet encapsulate a fun, engaging climb that balances physicality with the natural flow of the rock’s features.
The rock here carries a reliable texture, typical of the Main Wall, offering excellent friction and solid placements. Standard rack gear to 3 inches is sufficient, but doubling up on 1 and 2-inch cams noticeably boosts protection confidence, especially through the overlap and into the steeper cracks. The climb’s straightforward nature makes it approachable for climbers stepping up from easier grades or those sharpening crack skills.
Located in a striking wilderness area, McQuirks Mountain rewards visitors with expansive views that stretch across New Brunswick’s forested valleys. The granite’s subtle warmth under morning sun invites an early start, making spring through early fall the prime climbing window. Approaching Neutral Tribe involves a short trail hike across mixed terrain, with clear markers leading to the base near a prominent pine tree.
Plan for variable weather and bring layered clothing, as conditions can shift quickly. Footwear with sticky rubber and comfortable fit suits the radial demands of crack and face climbing. Hydration and light snacks are essential for sustained focus on the climb’s technical moves.
Whether you’re refining crack technique or seeking a moderate adventure in a quiet corner of Canada’s climbing landscape, Neutral Tribe holds ample appeal. Its manageable length and accessible protection make it an excellent mid-range trad climb with a sense of solitude and connection to the mountain’s raw character.
Careful gear placement is crucial through the overlap and steep upper crack; doubling cams in smaller sizes prevents runouts. Weather can change swiftly, so watch for wind and temperature drops that may impact rock friction.
Start early to take advantage of morning warmth and avoid afternoon shade on the Main Wall.
Double up smaller cams (1 and 2 inch) to ensure safe placements through the overlap on the first pitch.
Approach via the marked trail leading to the big pine tree; it’s a clear landmark at the base.
Bring sticky rubber shoes with a comfortable fit to manage technical finger jams and crack climbing.
Standard rack up to 3-inch cams is essential, with a strong recommendation to double up on 1 and 2-inch cams for thorough protection through tricky overlaps and steep crack sections.
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