"This compact trad climb on Hooker Boot Wall challenges you with a hand crack and slab sequence crowned by a technical crux past fixed bolts. Ideal for those ready to refine balance and gear placement within a singular, focused pitch."
Perched on the striking granite of Hooker Boot Wall, "Need a Shot of Penicillin" demands focus and steady hands as you ascend a clean, slabby face that challenges both balance and technique. This single-pitch trad climb begins on a featureless facade that soon yields to a hand crack, inviting you to engage with the rock’s texture and rhythm. The crux lies in the final moves past two bolts, where body positioning and precise footwork are critical to threading the needle without hesitation.
Located in the Snow Play Walls of the San Bernardino Mountains, this route offers more than technical climbing; it introduces you to the quiet intensity of the Southern California backcountry. The air carries a crisp edge, and towering pines sway gently, as if observing your ascent with quiet patience. Here, every foothold and hand jam connects you more deeply with this granite face, grounding the experience in a physical dialogue between climber and cliff.
At 75 feet, the climb favors those comfortable with exposure and confident on small features. The gear requirements blend traditional protection with the reassurance of fixed bolts, giving climbers both reliability and opportunities for careful gear placements. Expect to carry a modest rack for cams and nuts, complimented by quickdraws for the bolts and the chain anchors at the top.
Access to this climb is straightforward but demands respect for mountain conditions. The approach follows well-worn trails, crossing shaded forest floors and open granite slabs. Planning your timing to avoid the midday sun is wise, particularly in summer, since the wall faces slightly east and heats up quickly. Early mornings offer crisp air and calm winds, ideal for placing gear with steady hands.
"Need a Shot of Penicillin" is perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills while enjoying a manageable slab experience. Though rated 5.10a, the technical crux and required precision push the difficulty beyond mere numbers, offering a satisfying test of finesse and judgment. Whether you’re tuning your trad game or simply craving a single-pitch challenge, this route stands ready to deliver memorable movement along granite that feels both honest and rigorous.
Watch your footing on the slab sections as the rock can be slick, especially if there is morning dew or dust. The chain anchors are solid but inspect them closely to ensure reliable rappelling or lowering. Avoid loose rock near the base and wear a helmet for added security.
Start early to avoid strong sun and warming rock after midday.
Bring tape or gloves for hand crack protection on the slabby sections.
Check the chain anchors carefully for wear before leaving gear behind.
Use approach shoes for the trail and climbing shoes with solid edging ability.
Bring a standard trad rack with cams sized for hand to fist cracks, nut placements, and 5 quickdraws for the bolts. Chain anchors simplify the top-out rap or walk-off.
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