Adventure Collective

Nanook: The North Walls Classic in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
crack climbing
offwidth
multi-pitch
exposed
north walls
squamish granite
Length: 430 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Nanook
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Nanook delivers five pitches of precise crack and corner climbing on Squamish’s North Walls. This well-protected trad route challenges climbers with technical jams, exposed roof sections, and a variety of crack widths, all framed by stunning coastal granite."

Nanook: The North Walls Classic in Squamish

Nanook is a demanding trad climb carved into the steep, rugged expanse of the North Walls at The Chief, just outside Squamish, British Columbia. This five-pitch route traces a line of sharp cracks and corners on the lower-left section of the wall, offering climbers a challenging ascent peppered with technical moves and strong gear placements. From the first pitch, the route demands precise footwork and confident crack climbing as you clip a bolt and venture into a left-facing offwidth corner that tests your control on awkward jams and balance on slabby faces.

Moving up into the second pitch, the double corner system commands attention with burly, exposed climbing where a sequence near the top requires threading through a small roof to conquer an overhanging finger and hand crack—a true physical step that separates confident crack climbers from the rest. The bolted belay sits atop a tree stump, a natural marker of progress on this wild route.

Pitch three brings a mix of delicate face moves and stemming past bolts that lead you past a daunting roof. The steep crack beyond requires more than just strength; it asks for clever positioning and commitment before reaching the bolted belay, giving a brief moment to catch your breath. The fourth pitch shifts gears with an offwidth section climbing to a left-leaning, wide crack protected by a fixed piton. Here, carrying a second 6-inch cam can be a comfort for those less at ease with wide cracks.

The final pitch is a tighter, clean left-facing corner with a narrowing finger crack that rounds out the route’s variety and technical demands. The rock quality remains solid throughout, and the protection is generally reliable with doubles to 3 inches, singles from 4 to 6 inches, and small nuts covering the range. Most climbers find that the crux moves can be aided, allowing a fallback for those working through the hard sequences.

Access to the North Walls places you in the heart of Squamish’s climbing playground, with the local mountain’s granite jutting imposingly into the coastal air. The approach is straightforward yet requires careful navigation over rocky trails circling the base. Early starts are advised to avoid afternoon sun on the wall and to make the most of cool conditions that ease the intensity of the steeper pitches. Hydration is a must, as the sustained physical effort combined with the sun exposure can sap your energy quickly.

Nanook balances technical challenge and natural beauty, putting climbers into vibrant crack systems that test endurance, technique, and mental grit. The route’s isolated setting and commanding views of Squamish below enhance the sense of adventure while the reliable protection and clear line reassure those comfortable with sustained 5.11 climbing. For trad climbers looking to push skills on exposed granite with variety and style, Nanook stands as a rewarding objective that demands respect and preparation.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the belays, especially around the roof sections. The offwidth pitch can be intimidating; climbers unfamiliar with wide cracks should carry additional gear and be prepared for strenuous moves. The approach trail can be slippery when wet—take care in damp conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length430 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the granite face.

Bring a second 6-inch cam for added security on the offwidth pitch.

Check weather carefully; dry conditions are critical for safe crack climbing.

Hydrate well—exertion on steep pitches combined with sun exposure can be draining.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11+ rating on Nanook feels earned, with sustained technical sequences and physical jams that require solid crack technique. Crux sections on pitches one through three elevate the challenge, while the offwidth pitch offers a mental and physical break with a slightly lower grade. Compared to other classic North Walls routes, Nanook holds its own as a stiff test of traditional skills.

Gear Requirements

Doubles cams up to 3 inches, singles from 4 to 6 inches, and small nuts are essential. Some tricky placements demand wider cams for the offwidth pitch, and fixed pitons offer added security. Bolted belays provide reliable anchors throughout.

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Tags

crack climbing
offwidth
multi-pitch
exposed
north walls
squamish granite