"Naked Grotto on White Mountain challenges climbers with a steep, technical 5.11+ sport route set amid the wild expanse of the Yukon. A single pitch of focused climbing punctuated by a delicate bolt situation makes it an intense but rewarding ascent."
Naked Grotto offers a focused, challenging sport climb emblazoned along a striking arete on White Mountain, deep within the rugged Yukon Territory. This one-pitch route pushes the limits of your technique and composure with a pumpy 5.11+ grade that demands precise footwork and steady hands. The climb’s bolts trace a line that ascends sharply before veering left across an alternate bolt path toward the farthest anchors. While the rock feels solid for the most part, a word of caution: the fourth bolt is set in fragmented stone that carries just enough hold for body weight but should never be trusted to arrest a fall.
The rocky face here presents a raw challenge beneath a northern sky, surrounded by untouched wilderness that hums with the steady gusts of cool mountain air. The approach greets you with the crisp scent of open alpine winds and the distant call of birds native to this northern terrain. This climb is less about grandeur and more about concentrated effort, perfect for climbers who thrive on technical difficulty in a remote setting.
At sixty feet, it’s a short burst of pure movement—but one that calls for both mental focus and physical control. The presence of fixed bolts simplifies protection but requires vigilance; advanced climbers will appreciate the risk-reward balance, especially given the questionable nature of the fourth bolt. This isn’t a route for novices, yet it presents a controlled environment for seasoned climbers looking to push their limits without the complexity of multipitch logistics.
Planning your climb here means preparing for the chill of northern exposure and the solitude of White Mountain’s rugged contours. Wear sturdy shoes with excellent edging ability, pack layers to combat sudden temperature dips, and bring enough water and snacks for a day of focused climbing and alpine exploration. Timing-wise, the prime window is mid to late summer when daylight stretches long and weather is stable. A clear day will reveal crisp vistas while keeping the rock dry and grippy.
To top it off, the descent is straightforward but demands attention. A single rappel leads you safely back to the trail, so bring appropriate gear and double-check all anchors before committing. Naked Grotto offers an honest test—raw, direct, and a rare find for those drawn to the bold climbs of the Yukon wilderness.
The fourth bolt is embedded in fractured rock and should not be trusted to arrest falls—avoid weighting it heavily. Climbers must test placements carefully and maintain control to prevent dangerous falls.
Avoid falling on or near the 4th bolt due to fractured rock.
Climb in mid to late summer for better weather and longer daylight.
Use shoes with strong edging ability to handle technical moves.
Check anchor rigging carefully before rappelling.
The climb is fully bolted except for the fourth bolt, which is placed in fractured rock and should not be trusted to hold a fall. Bring a standard sport climbing rack and exercise caution on the questionable bolt.
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