"Mystical Tricks Cliff stands as a raw, chossy wall on the western edge of the Owens River Gorge, offering climbers a gritty, off-the-beaten-path experience. While it lacks polished perfection, this crag rewards those willing to navigate talus approaches and embrace its rugged character."
On the westside of the Owens River Gorge, before you reach the smoother terrain of the Roadside Boulders, sits Mystical Tricks Cliff—a wall etched with rough textures and uncompromising rock. This area doesn’t boast flawless granite or glass-like faces, but its raw, chossy complexion offers a distinct climbing vibe for those who seek adventure away from heavily trafficked routes. At an elevation of about 5,428 feet, the cliff juts out over a rugged talus slope, providing steady exposure to California’s famed Eastern Sierra atmosphere.
Access to Mystical Tricks is straightforward for those accustomed to approach walks in this part of the Gorge. From the standard downclimb near the central section, you head left along the road, then veer left again to scramble up the loose talus slope that leads directly to the wall. The approach isn't lengthy but calls for careful footing and a keen eye for loose rock. GPS coordinates 37.51459 latitude and -118.57165 longitude place you right in the heart of this wild landscape.
Expect weather typical of the Owens River Gorge—sunny and dry for much of the year, though climbers should always check the season before heading out since winter months can bring colder, unpredictable conditions. The prime climbing season here centers on spring through fall, making it ideal from March through October when the rock is usually dry and stable.
The climbing on Mystical Tricks Cliff ranges mainly in the 5.9 to 5.11+ territory, with several classic routes that beckon experienced climbers looking for action. Notable lines like Mystere Clips (5.9), Tricks in Motion (5.10a), and Brian’s Song (5.11a) offer a good challenge, but the rock’s overall chossiness means you should be ready for more than just technical difficulty. It's about managing the terrain, reading the line, and committing carefully. For those willing to engage with this rugged playground, the rewards come in a mix of fun sequences and gritty holds that test your precision and patience.
Safety is paramount here — the rock can feel loose in spots, so it’s crucial to move thoughtfully and be prepared to clean your holds as needed. Due to ongoing access challenges involving bridge removals requested by LADWP, local climbers are working with authorities to maintain safe and legal crossings. Respect the closures and plan on using alternative routes to get into the area. Additionally, responsible land stewardship is a must: park only off pavement, avoid blocking gates, and always pack out trash and waste. Use the outhouses provided and keep the area pristine for the climbing community and wildlife alike.
Protection tends to be sport routes bolted with fixed anchors, but due to the nature of this cliff, a solid rack with some moderate cams and nuts is helpful if you encounter less bolted terrain or want backup protection. The area lends itself mostly to single-pitch climbs, typically between 40–80 feet tall, perfect for quick sessions or focused first pitches.
Sun exposure on the westside cliff means afternoon shade arrives early, making morning to midday climbs most comfortable during warmer months. As the sun sets, the temperature can drop sharply, so layering is advised. The descent from the top generally involves downclimbing or scrambling back to the talus slope and then retracing your approach path carefully.
Mystical Tricks Cliff sits within the larger Owens River Gorge, a climbing area known for its sheer walls, powerful routes, and desert-like immensity. This area is beloved for its variety and impressive views across the Eastern Sierra, its rugged beauty kept intact through ongoing stewardship efforts. Climbers who visit Mystical Tricks will find themselves in a less polished but authentically wild setting where every move demands attention and every hold earned feels hard-won.
Popular classics on this wall include Mystere Clips, Tricks in Motion, and Brian’s Song — all offering solid sport challenges amid the crag’s demanding rock quality. It’s a destination where passion meets grit, making it essential for climbers who appreciate the raw energy of an unrefined cliff face in one of California’s premier climbing corridors.
The cliff’s chossy rock means loose holds and unstable talus near the base. Always wear a helmet and move deliberately on the approach and downclimb. Be cautious especially after wet weather and avoid climbing on damp rock to prevent slips and rockfall.
Respect ongoing bridge closures — seek alternate river crossings and follow local access updates.
Avoid parking on pavement and never camp overnight at access points.
Be meticulous with leave-no-trace principles — pack out all trash and dog waste.
Use outhouses provided and tread carefully on loose talus during approach and descent.
Routes on Mystical Tricks Cliff are mostly sport climbs with fixed bolts, but given the chossy rock and talus approach, bringing a rack with moderate cams and nuts is advised. Climbing shoes with good edging and confident footwork are necessary due to loose and crumbly sections.
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