"This single-pitch trad route at Crosier Mountain Crags offers a compact but demanding 5.8 climb, highlighted by a burly roof crack and solid slab moves. Perfect for climbers seeking focused technique work with straightforward descent and stunning canyon views."
Rising from the rugged grandeur of Big Thompson Canyon, the Mystery Route on Crosier Mountain Crags presents a concise yet compelling trad climb that packs both technical variety and crisp Colorado alpine character into a single pitch. Beginning roughly thirty feet to the left of the well-known Enigma face, this line sashays upward across clean slabs, inviting climbers into a dynamic sequence that soon confronts them with a sturdy roof crack demanding precise movement and commitment. The initial ascent to a single bolt serves as a firm welcome, a touchpoint before the steely challenge of negotiating the roof itself. Here, the rock grabs hold with an assertive edge that rewards confident footwork and body positioning.
Beyond the roof, the route eases into a flowing crack system that beckons balanced jamming and skilled hand placements, climbing steadily to well-kept anchors perched about 100 feet above the canyon floor. The route’s grade of 5.8 offers a slightly stiff feel, primarily driven by the roof section’s physical and mental demands. This climb suits intermediate climbers looking to sharpen crack skills and edge finesse in a less crowded setting while still soaking in views of the Estes Park Valley below.
Protection follows a trad style, requiring a thoughtful rack that includes cams up to 2.5 inches alongside the solitary bolt, necessitating sound gear placement to safeguard the crux moves. The rock quality here is solid, bearing the marks of careful use and natural wear but maintaining reliable holds throughout.
Approaching the route involves a manageable hike, threading through open terrain characteristic of the Big Thompson region with ample opportunity to observe the canyon’s changing light and the distant buzz of mountain winds shaping the landscape. After topping out, descent is straightforward—a 30-meter rappel back to the base, requiring climbers to be proficient with rope management and attentive to anchors.
Whether you’re refining your crack climbing technique or seeking a brief but rewarding excursion into trad territory, Mystery Route offers a straightforward, focused experience in one of Colorado’s less trafficked alpine crags. Preparation should include sturdy climbing shoes with a solid edging profile, a rack geared toward medium-sized cams, and plenty of water for the trek in and out. Early season or fall ascents capitalize on cooler temperatures and more stable conditions, avoiding the heat that can linger against exposed slabs during summer afternoons.
The roof section requires precise protection placement around a single bolt and cams; loose gear or missed placements here could lead to longer falls. Always double-check anchor security before descending the 30-meter rappel, and be cautious of rockfall from above, especially during warming daytime conditions.
Start about 30 feet left of the Enigma route to find the bolt and crack sequence.
Bring cams up to 2.5 inches for effective placement beneath the roof.
Plan for a 30-meter rappel descent; check anchors carefully before lowering.
Avoid midday summer heat to keep the rock cooler and your grip secure.
One bolt secures the early section before a roof crack challenge requiring cams up to 2.5 inches. A medium rack focusing on finger to hand-sized protection is crucial for safely managing the pitch.
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