Myopia stands as a rugged test of composure and skill tucked within the high granite walls of Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows. This three-pitch trad climb respects the old-school style Tuolumne is known for—sparse protection paired with technical moves that require steady nerves and precise footwork. The route begins with a discontinuous finger crack that demands delicate jam placements and confident movement. Here, the rock feels alive beneath your fingers—the cool granite pressing against your skin, urging patience and calculated moves as you ascend. Embracing the route’s reputation for runouts, the first pitch leads to a two-bolt anchor equipped with quick links and chain, where relief arrives in the form of fixed gear.

Pitch two shifts the mood slightly, veering right to negotiate a short but powerful 5.10a section. This pitch demands careful attention, as a small roof you must surmount forces you to trust your upper body strength and body positioning. The two bolts spaced closely together provide brief respite, but the rock challenges you with its subtle overhang and technical holds. Continued progression to a second two-bolt anchor reveals expansive Tuolumne views, with the midday sun warming the granite surfaces, and a crisp breeze rustling nearby pine needles.

The final pitch elevates the adventure further by threading a line past three well-placed bolts. The climbing is sustained at 5.10a, requiring carefully balanced movements, especially as you push slightly right towards the shared anchor for Diaphoretic Spasms. The route’s character shines here: straightforward but demanding, every move a reminder to respect the runout nature and commit fully.

Protection on Myopia is a mix of traditional gear—stoppers and small cams up to one inch dominate the initial finger crack—and bolts that punctuate pitches two and three. Climbing here emphasizes mental focus and technical precision over lavish gear. For you, the climber eager to feel the pulse of Tuolumne’s granite, Myopia offers a pure experience: unpolished, challenging, and with moments of serene exposure where the mountains themselves almost seem to hold their breath.

Climbers should come prepared with shoes that offer excellent friction for smearing and delicate placements, as well as light rack of smaller cams and stoppers. Hydration is essential, as the sun can intensify midday, especially on exposed sections beyond pitch one. Allow for a 1.5-2 hour approach from the Tuolumne Meadows trailhead, where a mix of forest path and open granite slabs guides you to Penny Royal Arches. Early morning starts are advisable to catch the wall in cooler conditions before the afternoon sun bakes it.

This route is ideal for climbers stepping up from moderate 5.7-5.9 cracks to test their ability on longer, runout terrain with low fixed protection. Myopia doesn’t offer beginner sanctuary—its challenges are clear and relentless, but so are the rewards: clean granite, wide-ranging views, and the satisfaction of climbing in one of Yosemite’s most storied sectors. With a well-planned approach, steady footwork, and respect for the route’s character, Myopia delivers a genuine Tuolumne climbing rite-of-passage.