"A crisp hand crack climbing experience in New Brunswick’s Bear Mountain Lower Tier, this single-pitch 5.6 trad route offers a clean line with straightforward protection and a steady rhythm. Ideal for climbers looking to build crack skills in a serene, quiet setting."
Carved into the left wall of a right-facing corner, the My Other Woman is a Hand Crack stands as a straightforward yet captivating test of crack climbing technique. This single-pitch route, stretching 30 feet, offers hands-only jamming along a sharp, jagged lightning bolt crack below a modest roof that guards the top section. From the moment you step onto the large ledge about five feet up, the climb demands focused body positioning and steady rhythm, rewarding persistence with a smooth finish above. The rock’s texture holds a raw, grainy feel—its edges clean but demanding—offering both grip and challenge. While still developing after some additional cleaning, the line's natural flow invites both newcomers to crack climbing and experienced trad climbers to refine their skills in a controlled setting. Protection is straightforward, relying on a standard rack, which fits neatly in the crack without weird placements, granting climbers confidence in their anchors and gear. Bear Mountain’s Lower Tier location provides a quiet escape from busier climbing spots, with air crisp and often fresh with conifer scent drifting down from the surrounding forest. Approaching the wall, the terrain is easy to navigate along informal trails, making it accessible for a mid-length climbing session. Optimal climbs happen during late spring through early fall when the rock is dry and temperatures are comfortable, avoiding the wet chill that can cling to this northern New Brunswick outcrop. The route's modest grade of 5.6 holds steady without unexpected cruxes, making it a reliable choice for warming up or honing crack technique, but be mindful that the crack’s narrow sections can test hand jams if you’re not warmed up. Descending requires a simple lower-off or a straightforward walk down, with no tricky scrambling involved. This approachable yet engaging climb encourages a slow, deliberate pace, where every feel of the rock beneath fingers comes alive, cultivating skill and presence on the stone. Whether you’re chasing a quiet day outdoors or fine-tuning your trad rack placements, My Other Woman is a Hand Crack stands ready to challenge and charm in equal measure.
Rock can be sharp along the crack edges, especially after recent cleaning—handle placements carefully. The ledge start is stable but watch footing to avoid slips. Weather can turn quickly; check forecasts before heading out.
Approach on footpaths through mixed forest; trailheads are easy to find but bring a GPS for precision.
Best climbed in dry weather from late spring to early fall to avoid slippery rock surfaces.
Start on the ledge about 5 feet above ground for the easiest entry point and better stance.
Wear gloves or tape hands if your skin is sensitive, as the crack has some sharp edges after cleaning.
Carry a standard trad rack with a full range of cams; the crack takes hand-sized protection comfortably. No unusual gear or fixed anchors are present, but bring nuts and small cams for varied placements.
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