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My Favorite Things: Classic Trad Ascent on Clouds Rest

Yosemite Valley, California United States
multi-pitch
trad gear
long approach
classic route
granite
Sierra Nevada
technical moves
endurance climb
Length: 2700 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
15
Location
My Favorite Things
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"My Favorite Things charts a demanding route up the West Face of Clouds Rest in Yosemite, weaving 2700 feet of sustained 5.9 climbing with a touch of 5.10a crux. This long multi-pitch trad climb is a test in endurance, technique, and commitment—the kind of route that rewards careful planning and steady resolve."

My Favorite Things: Classic Trad Ascent on Clouds Rest

Rising prominently above Yosemite Valley’s southern edge, Clouds Rest presents climbers with an imposing vertical challenge that few routes match in scope or stamina. My Favorite Things carves a compelling journey straight up the West Face, demanding sustained focus over 2700 feet of mostly 5.9 terrain. Starting with moderate but engaging pitches at 5.5 to 5.8, the climb gradually intensifies, peaking near a crux section rated 5.10a around the eleventh pitch. The climb’s length and varied difficulties ensure it’s no casual outing — it rewards climbers who come prepared for a full day of pushing their limits.

Approaching Clouds Rest involves a serious commitment: expect a 6-mile cross-country hike before even reaching the base. This trek leads through open Sierra landscape, where the high-altitude air thins and the surrounding wilderness shifts from dense forests to exposed granite slabs shimmering under the sun. Once on route, climbers encounter pitches measuring 55 to 60 meters, mostly requiring a 60m rope for safe movement. The rock surface offers solid granite with a mix of face moves, stemming sections, and cracks ranging from small to finger size, requiring precise traditional placements.

Protection on My Favorite Things is a classic trad setup: the route calls for an emphasis on small gear, finger-sized cams in particular, while some bolts appear sporadically, mainly fixed anchors at belays for secure stance transitions. Anchor stations are bolted, providing reliability after long pitches. This route balances physical endurance with the mental focus needed to manage gear placements efficiently to maintain momentum. The crux pitches push climbers to deliver precise technical moves, where footwork and body positioning are critical to avoid wasting energy.

The view from higher on the face expands to reveal Yosemite Valley below, a sprawling vista filled with granite domes, towering pines, and distant waterfalls cascading with seasonal vigor. The wall itself feels alive — wind plays across ledges, and the sun changes angles throughout the climb, spotlighting different features on the rock as the day progresses. Climbers report that finishing this route instills a deep satisfaction — a mix of physical triumph and time spent immersed in one of California’s premier alpine climbing zones.

Because the approach and descent cover significant distance and elevation, planning is crucial. Climbers should start early, bringing ample water, nutrition, and layering options for temperature shifts. Footwear with good grip and support will help handle the rocky approach. The descent involves rappels down the first 10 pitches, which can be done efficiently if no gear is left behind. After the climbing is complete, the return hike runs approximately 7 miles back to the trailhead through varied terrain — expect hiking boots or trail runners with ankle support.

My Favorite Things is not just a test of climbing skill but also of stamina and route management. It fits well in the repertoire of Yosemite capable climbers ready to step up beyond shorter classics. The route’s mix of climbing styles, length, and alpine environment offers a comprehensive mountain experience, harnessing both the rawness of granite and the grandeur of the Sierra Nevada wilderness.

Whether you’re preparing for your first big alpine day or adding a legendary route to your logbook, this climb challenges with honesty and rewards with spectacular exposure and views. Approach with respect for the conditions and your own readiness, and you’ll find that Clouds Rest’s West Face stands as an enduring adventure etched in stone and sweat.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the approach and lower pitches, and confirm your anchor belays carefully before committing. The lengthy descent and approach require ample daylight; plan your timing accordingly to avoid late-night navigation.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches15
Length2700 feet

Local Tips

Start before dawn to complete the route and the approach in daylight.

Carry plenty of water and high-energy snacks for the long haul.

Practice 60m rope management for smooth pitch transitions and rappels.

Wear sturdy hiking boots for the cross-country hike to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating centers on a crux pitch that demands precise technique and power, though the majority of the climb sits firmly at 5.9 or below. Ratings feel slightly generous considering the climb’s length, but the sustained nature and exposure lend an overall serious commitment. Climbers should be confident at 5.9 to handle the volume comfortably.

Gear Requirements

Prepare for long pitches requiring a 60m rope. Bring a standard trad rack with an emphasis on small to finger-sized cams. Bolted anchors provide secure belays, but most protection is gear-based, so precise placements are essential.

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Tags

multi-pitch
trad gear
long approach
classic route
granite
Sierra Nevada
technical moves
endurance climb