"Mushroom is a sharp, sustained thin crack on The Papoose wall that demands clean hand jams and steady technique. Perfect for trad climbers looking to hone their crack skills on solid granite in the heart of Shannon Falls."
Standing at the base of Mushroom is to face a stretch of pure, unyielding crack climbing that demands focus and finesse. This sharp splitter crack—thin enough for tight hands and precise ringlocks—runs an unbroken 80 feet on the far right of the Papoose wall. Its subtle challenge lies not just in its grade of 5.9, but in the commitment required to trust your jams where face holds are absent. The rock here is firm granite, gripping and solid under hand and foot. As you climb, the wall rises steeply with minimal ledges, offering a direct, sustained connection with the crack’s rhythm. The forest around the base hums quietly, broken only by rustling leaves and distant calls—your only company in this focused dance with the stone.
Mushroom is the ideal route for climbers who want to sharpen their trad crack technique and test their commitment to delicate, sustained jamming. The protection follows the crack tightly and efficiently: .5 and .75 Camalots fit most of the placements, with a #1 and #2 rounding out your rack. For those comfortable with trusting gear, doubles are optional but can help manage fall potential on the longer moves. The fixed carabiners at the top are a reliable end to the climb, but be mindful not to hammer repeat top-roping through them—the fixed gear is sturdy but deserves respect.
Approaching the Papoose area, expect a moderate 15-minute walk from the main parking zone at Shannon Falls Provincial Park. The trail is well-maintained, weaving through damp fir and cedar that frame your approach. This proximity to Squamish makes for an accessible day out, combining a taste of wildness with convenient amenities nearby. The Papoose wall itself faces east, so morning sessions provide a cool, shaded ascent before the afternoon sun warms the granite.
For anyone stepping onto Mushroom, preparation is key: wear shoes that encourage sensitivity on thin jams, bring a solid rack with the recommended cams, and be ready to engage fully with a climb that rewards patience and technique over brute force. The crack demands steady breathing and calm hands—respecting the logic of each jam as the rock tests your resolve. Whether you're refining your crack game or seeking a solid 5.9 challenge with no face holds, Mushroom delivers a pure, honest climb that stands apart in the Shannon Falls climbing scene.
Protection is reliable but requires familiarity with small to medium cams. The runouts can feel exposed if you hesitate placing gear, so a confident rack and solid crack skills are essential. Avoid overloading the fixed carabiners atop the route by limiting repetitive top-roping.
Arrive early for cooler morning shade on the Papoose wall.
Wear sticky, sensitive climbing shoes to maximize grip on thin jams.
Pack a rack focused on .5, .75, #1 and #2 Camalots for optimal protection.
Respect fixed anchors by limiting repeated top-rope use to preserve gear longevity.
Bring multiple .5 and .75 Camalots, along with a #1 and #2 to cover all placements. Doubles in mid-sized cams are helpful but optional if you're comfortable with some runouts. Fixed carabiners top out the route—avoid excessive top-roping to preserve these anchors.
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