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Mummified: a bold sport climb on Pyramid Wall’s striking arête

Welsford, Canada
arête
sport climbing
trad gear
compression move
single pitch
mixed protection
slabby face
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mummified
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mummified is a compelling 50-foot sport climb on Pyramid Wall’s arête, blending carefully placed bolts with traditional protection. Offering a sharp sequence of edges, bulges, and slabby face climbing, it challenges climbers to balance technical moves with mindful gear placement."

Mummified: a bold sport climb on Pyramid Wall’s striking arête

Mummified offers a compact yet compelling climb that commands attention on the Pyramid Wall, tucked into the Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick. This one-pitch sport route invites climbers to engage with a raw, textured rock face where every movement counts. The climb begins by edging across a massive detached block, a unique feature that not only challenges your balance but also provides an unconventional vantage point to clip the opening bolt. From here, the route leans into a striking arête that demands precise footwork and a steady hand.

The sequence shifts as you move left under a low, shallow bulge—a section that is notably more challenging for taller climbers due to the compression required. Pressing upward, the route follows a clean face toward the second bolt, teasing out controlled moves that reward focused effort. The crux emerges as you transition back onto the arête, hauling onto a ledge shared with a resilient spruce tree that seems to guard this passage with quiet strength.

Following the slabby arête, you’ll clip one final bolt before reaching the ring anchors, which Mummified shares with the nearby Tut’s Tomb route. The entire climb stretches roughly 50 feet and is protected by three bolts augmented with traditional gear placements such as cams up to 1.5 inches and a few nuts nestled in cracks. The rock is generally sound but requires attention to subtle holds and the occasional dirty ledge, so precision and a good eye for protection will serve you well.

Accessing the climb means venturing into the broader Pyramid Wall area, a rugged section of cliffs that offers a quiet escape for climbers who appreciate routes that blend straightforward sport climbing with the added element of natural gear. The surrounding forest opens with fresh air and a whispering breeze, setting a calm atmosphere that contrasts the focused energy demanded on the wall. Late spring through early fall presents the ideal window for climbing here, when the temperatures are steady and the rock is dry.

Plan to bring a rack suited for both bolts and traditional placements—cam sizes up to 1.5 inches cover the key cracks, and a selection of nuts rounds out your protection options. Because the route shares anchors with neighbors, respect for rope management and awareness of other parties are essential. Footwear with sticky rubber will help you traverse the arête and slab sections with confidence, while a moderate level of climbing experience ensures you can comfortably negotiate the compression and smear moves.

Mummified embodies a purposeful blend of sport climbing convenience and traditional challenge. It’s an approachable yet stimulating introduction to the Pyramid Wall’s distinctive lines, perfect for climbers wanting to push their technique without committing to a multi-pitch adventure. Whether you’re coming through New Brunswick or carving out time locally, this route delivers a focused climb with enough character to inspire repeat visits.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose debris on the ledge beneath the spruce tree, as it can shift underfoot. The approach involves some uneven terrain in the forest; good boots help ensure stable footing. Because the anchors are shared, communicate clearly with other parties to avoid congestion or rope entanglement.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Stand on the detached block to clip the first bolt safely and comfortably.

The low bulge section requires tight body positioning—shorter climbers may find easier flow here.

Bring a rack with cams up to 1.5 inches and standard nuts for optimal protection.

Be mindful of rope drag near the final bolts, as the anchor is shared with nearby routes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:At 5.6, Mummified sits in the moderate spectrum but pushes you to focus on movement and protection strategy rather than raw difficulty. The climbing feels solid but has a handful of subtle crux moments—especially around the bulge and the transition back to the arête—that add bite to an otherwise straightforward grade. Compared to other local routes, it’s slightly more involved due to the mixed gear requirements and technical foot placements.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by three bolts and requires additional gear including cams up to 1.5 inches and a handful of nuts for a few natural crack placements. Pay close attention to gear placement on the ledges and cracks, as the protection support relies on both fixed and trad gear.

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Tags

arête
sport climbing
trad gear
compression move
single pitch
mixed protection
slabby face