"Much Ado About Nothing ascends the northwest wall of Chiefshead in RMNP, weaving a route through dihedrals and ramps over 700 feet. This moderate 5.8 trad-alpine climb offers gratifying moves, thoughtful gear placements, and stunning alpine views for intermediate climbers seeking a balanced challenge."
Carving a line up the imposing Northwest Face of Chiefshead, Much Ado About Nothing offers a straightforward yet immersive alpine trad climb that resonates with both seasoned and aspiring climbers. The route unfolds over roughly 700 feet across five pitches, ascending a series of ramps, flakes, and ledges that frame a compelling climb in Glacier Gorge, Rocky Mountain National Park. You start at the base of a left-facing corner beneath a striking white rock formation shaped like a head profile, setting the tone for a route defined by natural features and moderate difficulties.
The initial pitch invites you into a dihedral that splits around a V-shaped point—climbers can either follow this right branch or negotiate steeper, rubble-strewn ground to find a stable belay ledge within the pale stone. This sets a practical tone; while the climbing largely avoids extreme exposure, route-finding requires attentiveness. Pitch two continues along flakes and ledges named for their shape, reminding you that this climb is as much about careful movement and patience as it is about physical effort. As you tag along ledges and flakes that suggest the 'head' formation mentioned at the start, your feet find purchase on coarse granite, and your hands trace quiet edges hidden among the dimples and cracks.
The next two pitches extend around 300 feet, mostly climbing ramps angling leftward below a shadowed roof that demands cautious observation. This section rewards with a smoother rhythm once past the initial steepness, though the terrain’s varied texture calls for a confident use of your trad rack. Pitch five finishes with a left-facing flake, before angling right to a grassy ledge that opens a window onto sweeping mountain views—reminding you why this line holds appeal beyond just its technical aspects.
For climbers, carrying a standard rack suffices, but expect to place protections thoughtfully with smaller cams and nuts. The rock quality is good, though broken sections near the start may test your ability to find secure stances. The route’s moderate 5.8 rating feels honest, with the crux tucked neatly into the final pitch. While not overly sustained, the climb demands focus on footwork and strategic resting points. Compared to other routes in RMNP’s alpine zones, this one offers a balanced mix of accessibility and alpine atmosphere, perfect for those wanting a classic trad objective with a manageable approach.
Access involves a well-trodden trail into Glacier Gorge; the approach is moderate, with mostly forested terrain and some rocky patches, taking about 45 minutes from the parking area. GPS coordinates mark an easy rendezvous, and once at the base, the climb’s flow becomes evident. The route sits on a northwest-facing wall, benefiting from morning sun but providing afternoon shade that keeps the granite cool during summer climbs. Best tackled from late spring through early fall to avoid snow hazards, the seasonal window aligns with the park’s peak climbing months.
The descent is straightforward—scramble up moderate slopes to reach the rappel anchors or continue ascending to the summit for an extended trek down. Always check for loose rock on the descent and plan your rappel carefully to avoid lingering on exposed ledges.
Much Ado About Nothing invites climbers into a vivid alpine experience that demands respect for the mountain’s rhythm while rewarding careful preparation. With clear route-finding clues and manageable protection needs, it’s a route that balances adventure with practical climbing sensibilities.
Watch for loose rock on the initial broken ground and during the descent scramble. The approach ramps are generally solid but expect some fragile flakes that demand cautious gear placements and steady footwork.
Start early to take advantage of morning sunshine on the northwest face.
Use sturdy footwear with reliable edging as some ramps are polished granite.
Scout the descent route ahead of time; some sections have loose rock.
Carry enough water and snacks, as the climb and approach can take most of the day.
Bring a standard trad rack including a range of cams from small to medium sizes and a full set of nuts. Expect to place protection primarily in flakes, cracks, and dihedrals. No fixed gear is present, so be prepared for spot placements especially on the lower pitches where broken ground calls for caution.
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