"Mr. Patacca offers climbers a focused 95-foot sport climb on clean limestone in El Potrero Chico, culminating in a unique crawl-through feature before reaching the chains. Quick to reach and perfectly bolted, it's an accessible 5.9 with a rewarding flow and striking desert ambiance."
El Potrero Chico, revered as a beacon for climbers, offers routes that balance swift athletic challenges with rewarding exposure. Among these, Mr. Patacca stands out as a concise yet engaging ascent—a single pitch of 95 feet that carves a path up a clean, sculpted limestone face. The wall rises steadily, inviting climbers to engage with its textured surface, culminating in a distinctive feature: a snug little hole carved into the rock, just enough to slip into for a moment’s brief respite.
The climb’s flow is direct but precise. The bolts are thoughtfully placed, providing secure protection throughout and instilling confidence without excessive gear fuss. This route caters to sport climbers eager for a straightforward 5.9 challenge—accessible to many while still offering a satisfying push. The chains at the top mark a clear endpoint, encouraging climbers to pause above the void and appreciate the expansive Northern Mexico landscape truly alive with the hum of adventure.
El Potrero Chico’s terrain here is marked by its arid climate and the sun’s relentless attention. Approaching Mr. Patacca means stepping onto rock warmed by the day, under skies that stretch uninterrupted. The approach is short and direct, making it ideal for climbers who want to maximize their climbing time with minimal trek. Positioned at about 26 degrees north latitude, the site basks in morning light, with a west-facing orientation that offers shade as the day progresses—perfect for afternoon ascents.
While the route itself is brief, the experience is intense and clean, demanding focused movement and respect for the rock’s texture. Climbers should come prepared with solid sport shoes, chalk up well, and bring water, as conditions on the limestone can dry out skin quickly. The nearby town acts as a dependable base, supplying essentials and a welcome return to civilization.
Knowing the route’s character ahead of time improves the climb’s flow. Aim for a mid-morning to mid-afternoon window to evade the blistering midday heat, and consider a light warm-up on nearby routes to engage your fingers and legs. The one-pitch nature of Mr. Patacca means it’s a great option for a warm-up or to fit in a quality climb when time is tight.
This route’s simplicity belies its depth; it invites climbers to sharpen movement on clean stone and savor the quiet challenge of measured effort. From the compact crack to the secure bolts, Mr. Patacca is a memorable route for those exploring El Potrero Chico’s storied walls.
Watch footing approaching the cave feature—wet or dusty holds can reduce traction. The rock is generally sound, but remain alert for sharp edges when crawling near the hole. Heat exposure is a concern; avoid midday sun to reduce dehydration risks.
Approach is less than 10 minutes on well-marked trails—keep an eye out for rattlesnakes.
Climb in the cooler parts of the day to avoid overheating on sun-exposed limestone.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection; shade arrives late in the day.
Use chalk generously—limestone here tends to “grab” but can dry skin quickly.
The route is fully bolted, suited for sport climbing shoes, quickdraws, and a standard 60m rope. Protection is straightforward with no need for traditional gear.
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