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Mr. Magoo at Super Heros Wall Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
finger crack
S-shaped
runout
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
single pitch
crack technique
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mr. Magoo
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mr. Magoo delivers a meticulous trad challenge on Joshua Tree’s Super Heros Wall, weaving a demanding finger crack that tests precision and mental focus. Its single pitch rewards climbers with engaging moves on dark varnish before linking up with the classic Yosemite Sam finish."

Mr. Magoo at Super Heros Wall Joshua Tree

Mr. Magoo presents a focused and technical challenge on the iconic Super Heros Wall, located within the stark beauty of Joshua Tree National Park’s Lost Horse Area. This single-pitch, 60-foot trad route demands precise fingerwork as it follows an S-shaped crack to the left of the well-known Yosemite Sam route. The climb begins with a bold start up the dark varnished rock, offering solid crimps that test fingertip strength before transitioning into a sustained crack system. Here, fingers find snug placements while hands occasionally expand to larger jams that keep your body locked in close to the rock.

The crack's winding nature shapes an engaging rhythm, inviting climbers to move with intention—the rock itself almost daring you to trust your protection and climbing smarts. The finish merges with the upper section of Yosemite Sam, where larger hand jams provide relief before topping out. The rock’s texture is typical of Joshua Tree’s quartz monzonite: rough and abrasive, gripping shoes and skin alike, adding confidence on smaller holds.

Gear is crucial here. The protection calls for well-placed finger-sized pieces that will hold trustingly in the crack’s tighter sections, plus a few hand-sized cams to secure the Yosemite Sam finish. Expect to shuffle gear quickly and remain vigilant for tricky placements amid the narrow constrictions.

Access to Super Heros Wall is straightforward but does require attention to detail. From the Lost Horse Trailhead, a well-marked path takes about 20 minutes through scrub and rocky terrain to the base of the wall. Expect bright desert sun in the afternoon; early morning starts cool the tone of the rock, easing the challenge of crimps warmed by the heat.

While the route often flies under the radar compared to its more famous neighbors, Mr. Magoo rewards climbers with a pure crack climb that blends technical finger endurance with confident route-finding. The R rating (runout) warns that careful gear placement and mental focus are mandatory, especially on the initial varnished moves where protection is sparse.

Climbers should prepare for Joshua Tree’s desert environment—ample water, sun protection, and good rock shoes are non-negotiable. The descent is a simple walk off to the base, but return trail conditions can be loose, requiring attention on tired legs.

Mr. Magoo stands out as a compact trad test-piece amidst Joshua Tree’s sprawling walls. It offers a precise, hands-on rock experience with a practical commitment—ideal for climbers seeking to sharpen crack skills in a setting that feels alive, reactive, and uncompromising.

Climber Safety

Beware of limited protection on the initial moves along the varnished rock surface. The runout sections mean a fall could be long, so place pro carefully and communicate clearly with your belayer. The rock can be abrasive but watch for loose flakes near the crack exits.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense afternoon sun heating the dark varnish.

Bring a full finger to hand-sized trad rack; finger gear is critical here.

Approach via the well-marked Lost Horse Trail—expect about a 20-minute walk.

Be prepared for runouts on the initial moves; clip gear carefully and stay composed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a with an R designation, Mr. Magoo leans into a precise technical crux on polished crimps at the start, where poor protection and slick holds elevate the challenge. The grade feels true to 5.10a but the runout adds a mental layer, making it feel stiffer than the numeric rating alone. Compared to nearby routes like Yosemite Sam, this climbs with similar finger locking demands but requires more cautious gear placement in exposed sections.

Gear Requirements

Finger-sized protection for the main crack with a few hand-sized placements required for the Yosemite Sam finish. High attention to gear placement is essential due to an R rating and some runout sections on varnished rock.

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Tags

finger crack
S-shaped
runout
desert climbing
Joshua Tree
single pitch
crack technique