"Mr. Bojangles is a short but dynamic sport climb on Lion’s Head offering precise movement on sharp limestone holds. Ideal for climbers seeking a focused challenge framed by stunning views of Ontario’s south shore."
Perched along the rugged contours of Lion's Head, Mr. Bojangles offers an accessible yet stimulating sport climbing experience that blends solid, technical moves with the striking natural backdrop of Ontario’s south shore cliffs. This route presents itself as a concentrated burst of vertical challenge—just one pitch, but packed with sharp holds and strategic sequences. Once you rappel down from the cliff top marked by the bold letters “Mr. B,” you'll find a hanging belay anchoring you in a space where raw limestone greets your fingertips. Climbing straight up this bolted line invites a measured approach, requiring finger strength and composure on the 5.10d grade. The rock is reliable, with well-placed bolts keeping protection close, encouraging confident movement without excess gear fuss.
The climb’s setting near the edges of Lake Huron affords sweeping views, where the breeze carries the fresh scent of water and pine. The wall faces a direction that catches the sun mid-morning into the afternoon, warming the holds just enough for day-round climbing, especially in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall. Though the route is short, the physicality and technique it demands make it a rewarding test for those comfortable at this level, encouraging a solid warm-up or a focused project day.
Approach is straightforward but requires attention: the trail to the top involves some scrambling and a firm footing on loose rock, typically a 20-minute hike from the parking area near Lion’s Head village. Being prepared with sturdy shoes and water is essential, as the hours spent above the cliffs feel exposed despite the pleasant breezes. The rappel from “Mr. B” is a smooth way to access the climb, but callers should double-check their gear and knots—descending into a hanging belay adds a level of precision to your setup.
This climb’s concise nature makes it ideal for climbers seeking a solid sport route without the commitment of multi-pitch navigation, and the bolted line offers simplicity for those moving efficiently. The straightforward protection and manageable crux encourage flow over guesswork, while the setting amplifies the satisfaction of blending nature’s strength with your own. Be ready for sharp limestone edges underfoot, and prepare your fingers for the sustained holds. Mr. Bojangles at Lion’s Head is your ticket to an invigorating day out, where every move counts and the lake’s presence reminds you of the wild just beyond the cliff rim.
The rappel down to the hanging belay requires confident rope management and vigilance. Loose rock near the top approach can cause slip hazards, so use care scrambling and always wear a helmet while accessing or descending the route.
Start your approach early to avoid the heat on exposed rocky sections.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the sharp limestone edges.
Bring plenty of water—there’s no natural source near the cliff top.
Double-check anchor knots before rappelling; hanging belays leave no room for error.
The route is fully bolted, providing secure and straightforward protection. Rappelling from the top marked “Mr. B” delivers access to a hanging belay, so bring a 60m rope and double-check rappel setups to ensure a smooth descent.
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