HomeClimbingMove It On Over

Move It On Over: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
trad gear
single pitch
dihedral finish
west coast granite
protected anchor
easy approach
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Move It On Over
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Move It On Over offers an engaging, finger-width crack climb at the Main Wall in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. This accessible 5.9 trad route tests precision gear placement and crack technique, finishing with a choice of clean dihedral options at the top."

Move It On Over: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge in Squamish

Move It On Over stands at the right edge of the Main Wall in The Smoke Bluffs, Squamish, offering a compelling test for trad climbers seeking a finger-to-hand crack climb that demands focus and precision. The route’s eighty feet of vertical rock trace a clean, parallel crack that stops short of the ground, inviting climbers to commit to the initial moves with careful footwork and hand jams. Those opening moments require both finesse and confidence, as the crux revolves around making a solid connection into the crack itself. For added security, bolts from neighboring routes flank the climb on either side, giving the option to clip in if the start feels uncertain—though purists may prefer to stick solely to traditional gear.

From the base, the rock feels alive, cool to the touch, with the crack’s edges catching the sunlight while shadows creep across the textured granite. As you ascend, the rock’s raw features come into sharper focus: finger-width fissures that gradually expand to hand-sized holds guide you upward. Nearing the top, a right-facing dihedral appears, offering a tactical choice—either turn right or left to approach anchors. Climbers generally favor the left, where the rock provides a more fluid finish and cleaner movement.

The gear needed for this route leans mostly into smaller protection, with reliable placements up to 2 inches. This gear selection complements the natural features of the crack, which demands precise gear placement and a steady hand. The two-bolt anchor at the top ensures a secure belay spot and smooth transition for rope management. Once at the summit, descent is straightforward with a simple walk-off to the left, through forested trails that soak up the coastal dampness and whisper the stories of the mountain back to the earth.

The Smoke Bluffs offer an accessible yet invigorating climbing environment in British Columbia, merging classic North American crack routes with rugged west coast charm. Move It On Over fits squarely into this ethos: approachable but demanding, natural yet meticulously protected. With an average rating hovering around 2.5 stars from 55 votes, this climb may not boast overwhelming popularity but rewards those who arrive with steady hands and a calculated approach.

For anyone planning their ascent, timing your visit during drier months maximizes the friction on the granite and reduces moss and dampness. Early morning ascents catch the wall still cool and shaded, easing the grip’s hold on your skin before midday sun warms the rock. Footwear with sticky rubber and comfortable fit is essential, as the climbs rely heavily on subtle footwork within narrow placements.

The proximity to Squamish town offers convenience without sacrificing the sense of wilderness, and the approach trail is short yet rocky, requiring sturdy shoes and a steady pace. Local tips highlight the value of a light rack focused on smaller cams, and the importance of staying aware of occasional loose rock near the start. This combination of old-school crack climbing and practical route details ensures a rewarding experience whether you’re tuning skills or simply savoring a classic on one of Canada’s well-loved granite faces.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the base of the climb and consider optional bolt clipping to reduce early fall risks. The route’s top anchor is solid, but descent paths can be slippery when wet—take care on the walk-off.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Consider clipping bolts on either side of the route for safer starts, though this is optional.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for better purchase on delicate foot jams.

Start early in the day for cooler rock and minimal dampness.

Plan for a short but rocky approach—footwear stability is key.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Move It On Over feels fair with a slightly stiff crux at the entry into the crack. The protection options ease some mental strain early, but the sustained crack climbing rewards steady hands. Compared locally, it shares a similar difficulty and style with nearby classic smoke bluff climbs like The Chicken Butcher, making it a solid next step for trad climbers honing their crack skills.

Gear Requirements

Traditional gear up to 2 inches fits the crack securely; a two-bolt anchor tops out the route, simplifying anchor setup and belay management.

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Tags

finger crack
trad gear
single pitch
dihedral finish
west coast granite
protected anchor
easy approach