Situated on the south-facing face of Expedition Buttress, the Mountaineer Route beckons climbers seeking a straightforward yet engaging trad climb amid the rugged splendor of Colorado’s Gunnison area. This four-pitch line follows a prominent corner system just left of the sharp Knife Blade Arete—a splitter feature dividing the buttress’s two main walls. The initial pitches unfold over broader, low-angle terrain that can feel loose and chossy, requiring careful footwork and focused route-finding. As you ascend, the rock quality improves noticeably, revealing cleaner holds and increasing technical interest. The final pitch delivers the true climbing challenge by funneling you into the main dihedral, a narrowing corner that demands balanced jamming and committed moves.

At approximately 450 feet total, the route offers a solid half-day outing for climbers proficient in 5.9 PG13 trad climbing, blending accessibility with just enough exposure to keep the experience lively. The Wall’s southern exposure means you’ll soak up morning sun, warming the rock and air—a welcome touch in Colorado’s mountains. Protection is standard trad rack fare, but a helmet is essential here, not just for loose stone but also the occasional dislodged lichen fragments. For those sensitive to brushy, vegetated sections, patience and a lightweight brush might be handy, although a careful approach will often suffice.

Approaching Expedition Buttress is a straightforward trek via Spring Creek, with access starting near Gunnison. The trail climbs steadily but without steep sections, threading through open forest and occasional meadows before opening onto the expansive granite walls. GPS coordinates put you right in the heart of this accessible wilderness playground at latitude 38.80187 and longitude -106.75003. Once at the base, the route is easily recognizable by the large corner system adjacent to the knife blade-like arete that stands as a sentinel between the buttress walls.

For climbers eyeing this route, the Mountaineer offers a taste of Gunnison’s wild granite with a straightforward challenge: a climb that tests your crack climbing skills without overwhelming complexity. The area’s quiet remoteness lends an unspoiled feeling and stunning views of the surrounding peaks. Come prepared with solid trad gear, a reliable helmet, and an appetite for steady climbing over varied terrain. With patience and focus, you’ll reward yourself with both the thrill of the vertical and a tremendous sense of accomplishment.