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Mouche à Feu: A Compact Trad Challenge in Northern Quebec

Dalquier, Quebec Canada
crack climbing
mantle move
short pitch
solid protection
beginner trad
Length: 10 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mouche à feu
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mouche à feu is a tight, focused trad climb in northern Quebec featuring a demanding mantle and straightforward protection. Perfect for climbers seeking a quick, technical pitch amid quiet northern granite."

Mouche à Feu: A Compact Trad Challenge in Northern Quebec

Set in the quiet stretches of Abitibi-Temiscamingue, Mouche à Feu offers a brief but engaging trad climb that tests both technique and nerves. This single-pitch, 10-foot route unfolds along a clear, clean crack that demands steady footwork and thoughtful gear placement. The climb’s standout feature is a mantle move positioned midway, which requires a careful balance of strength and finesse to surmount comfortably—and safely. Rock here is solid, inviting climbers to trust their placements and move with conviction. The protection is straightforward, relying on a standard rack, making it accessible for trad climbers familiar with gear management. Approaching the route, climbers are greeted by a calm environment far removed from busier crags, allowing focused climbing without distractions. The wall faces a direction that welcomes morning light, warming the granite just enough to prep fingers without overheating. This orientation also means that afternoon ascents may be cooler, which can help during warmer months. Because the route is short, it makes an ideal warm-up or a quick technical session when time is tight but the desire to climb remains strong. Nearby campsites provide a quiet base with minimal amenities, so preparation is key—pack hydration and basics, as services are sparse. Although the climb’s difficulty rating sits at 5.6, climbers should expect the mantle move to push the limits slightly, especially under fatigue or wind chill. This is not a climb for beginners without some experience in similar protection and crack climbing. Descending is simple: a controlled downclimb or short walk-off that avoids any complex rappel setup. Mouche à Feu stands as an inviting piece of northern Quebec's granite for climbers willing to focus on quality over length, blending technical demands with a peaceful setting.

Climber Safety

The mantle move requires careful foot and hand placement; slipping here can lead to a fall on shallow ledges below. Ensure your gear is well placed before committing to this move, and approach with caution on chilly or damp days.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length10 feet

Local Tips

Bring a full standard rack including small to medium cams for secure placements.

Approach in the morning for optimal sun and warmer rock conditions.

Hydrate well and pack light—facilities nearby are limited.

Be prepared for a technical mantle move that might catch you off guard.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Although rated a 5.6, the climb’s mantle in the middle elevates its challenge beyond a typical easy pitch. The grade feels just firm enough to keep climbers engaged without stepping into overtly technical territory, resembling other mellow but slightly bold climbs in northern Quebec.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack recommended to protect the clean crack and mantle; no fixed gear present.

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Tags

crack climbing
mantle move
short pitch
solid protection
beginner trad