"Most of the Time is a solid, approachable 5.8 trad route tucked into Boulder Canyon’s Bihedral Area. It rewards measured movement through a shallow corner with thoughtful small-to-mid size gear placements, offering both quiet focus and dependable enjoyment on sandstone."
Tucked away on the left edge of the Bihedral Area in Boulder Canyon, Most of the Time offers a straightforward yet satisfying traditional climb that appeals to those wanting a contemplative moment on solid rock. This single-pitch route stretches roughly 80 feet, presenting climbers with a shallow corner system climbing steadily upward. The rock’s texture grips confidently beneath your fingertips as you navigate the varied holds, the sandstone’s grain whispering the history of countless ascents that came before.
As you climb, the wall's subtle angle encourages a measured pace—nothing rushed, but always engaging. The modest vertical gain balances challenge with accessibility, making it suitable for climbers transitioning from sport to trad or seeking a lower-stress outing without sacrificing quality. Protection consists mainly of small to mid-sized gear placements, rewarding precise rack choices and attentive placements in the gently widening corner. Expect a handful of thoughtful placements rather than a racking frenzy, adding a quiet tactical element.
The approach is unassuming, down and to the left of the more popular Bihedral Rock. The path tracks along well-trodden footing in Boulder Canyon—a region known for its broad sandstone faces and intimate climbing pockets. Ambient forest sounds mingle with the occasional clink of your gear, painting a soundscape that centers your focus on the climb ahead.
Climbing Most of the Time delivers more than just movement; it grants a brief escape into a raw, outdoor classroom where rock and climber converse. The walk-off to the left at the top offers a gentle descent back to the base, a welcome conclusion to a climb built around balance and quiet precision. Boulder’s temperate climate and dry rock usually mean excellent conditions, though early morning or late afternoon sessions are best to avoid midday heat and busy crowds.
With a 5.8 rating, the route’s graded challenges feel approachable with some moxie—bits of jamming, edging, and subtle technique come together to shape a route with old-school flavor and practical demands. Whether you’re pacing yourself or sharpening trad skills, it’s a solid tick in a varied area that still flies under the radar compared to Boulder’s high-profile climbs.
Bring comfortable shoes with enough edging support, a rack stocked with a range of small to medium cams and nuts, and enough water for a mild hike. The clear skies and fresh air invite a steady breath, proving that not every climb needs to roar with difficulty to deliver meaningful adventure.
The route’s runs between protection require consistent gear placement, especially in small to mid-size cracks that can feel shallow. Be mindful of loose rock near the top and take care with your footwork on the walk-off to avoid slips on uneven terrain.
Approach from the left side of Bihedral Rock; it's an easy but often missed turn off the main trail.
Climbing in the morning or late afternoon helps avoid sun exposure and keeps the sandstone cool.
Place protection carefully—gear choices can impact comfort on this steady corner system.
Walk off left at the top; the descent route is straightforward but keep an eye on footing.
Small to mid-size gear placements are the norm here, with plenty of opportunities to lock in solid protection through the shallow corner. Bring a well-thought rack emphasizing smaller cams and nuts to cover all placement options smoothly.
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