More Balls Than Bacon offers a compelling test of traditional climbing skill on Yosemite’s storied granite, presenting a single pitch packed with variety and technical finesse. Starting with a solid #3.5 Camalot crack, climbers can expect to engage in powerful liebacking on well-cut edges that invite confident hand jams and foot placements. The initial section demands controlled movement and keen route-finding as you leverage incuts to maintain steady upward progress. Midway, the route veers left onto a playful finger crack tightening into a small hand crack—this transition challenges your crack climbing versatility and finger strength.

The finale pushes into the 'I Smell Bacon!' off-width, a distinctive segment that tests how well you handle wide cracks with sustained pressure. Here, runners often bring doubles of smaller protection and rely on #3 Camalots—or even larger cams like a #4 to #4.5—to safely ascend the back of the off-width, where body positioning and technique trump brute force. The climb ends anchored off a sturdy tree, offering a secure spot to prepare for the rappel down via the off-width route itself.

This pitch sits on the North Side of Yosemite Valley’s B&B Buttress, a locale prized for its clean granite and quiet focus, just minutes from the bustling valley floor. The approach is straightforward, carving through manageable terrain that allows for an easy, less-than-15-minute hike to the base. Experienced Trad climbers will appreciate the mix of power and finesse demanded by the route, combining classic Yosemite style with an approachable 110 feet length that fits well into a half-day climbing adventure.

Gear preparation is rooted in traditional rack essentials: a range embracing #2 to #3.5 Camalots will cover the start, transitioning to smaller pieces doubled up for the technical fingers and thin hands. Prepare for the off-width finale with two #3s or a heftier #4, ensuring confident protection placements on a segment that requires measured patience and proper technique.

The granite here carries a crisp texture favored by climbers who enjoy incut holds and sustained jams. Expect the rock to feel reliable and solid—it’s the kind of surface that rewards careful footwork and hand placements, helping you move efficiently while absorbing the tactile nuances of the crack system.

For timing, mornings in spring and early summer are ideal, as the north-facing wall stays cool and shaded, reducing the chance of slippery heat sweats while keeping friction high. Descending is simple yet demands attention: rappel down 'I Smell Bacon!' off-width with plenty of webbing or slings for anchoring at the demarked tree.

In sum, More Balls Than Bacon combines the thrill of technical crack climbing with the practicality of a short, accessible pitch. Its varied crack sizes and established pro placements make it an excellent route for trad climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills while soaking in Yosemite’s incomparable climbing environment.