"More Affliction challenges climbers with sustained 5.10a face climbing and moderate 5.7 to 5.8 sections across three pitches in the scenic Crystal Wall area. Expect thin moves, tricky protection, and a mix of bolts and natural gear placements set against expansive Tahoe granite."
More Affliction demands a focused mind and steady hands as you ascend the slick, sun-bleached face of Crystal Wall’s Slick Rock Dome. The climb kicks off with thin, sustained 5.10a moves, navigating past a pair of bolts before easing slightly. You’ll find yourself tracing water-streaked slabs, edging left near a prominent dike before veering hard right to the first belay station stationed at rap chains — a spot shared with neighboring Friction Affliction. From here, the terrain softens to moderate 5.7 and 5.8 face climbing, with a quest for sturdy flakes and a rare roof feature that survived a partial collapse in 2015. This section invites careful rack placement, as protection can be sparse and placements sometimes less than ideal. Continuing upward, a vertical flake system punctuates the pitch before leading you to a belay anchor marked by uneven bolts and screwlinks—the line’s signature handholds for respite.
The final pitch is a measured ascent slightly rightward, past a lone bolt on easy terrain, before angling up and left to reach the true summit and its rap chains overhead. The route totals approximately 450 feet over three pitches and invites climbers with solid trad skills who appreciate a mix of harder sequences and moderate sections that test route-finding and gear judgment. Two 70-meter ropes allow for a smooth double descent in two raps, or a three-rap retreat down the route’s pitches, with walking options available as well.
More Affliction resides within the famous Highway 50 Corridor near Lake Tahoe, a corridor known for its expansive granite formations and dynamic climbing experiences. The route’s exposure offers wide views of surrounding peaks while the sun-baked granite reflects the midday heat, underscoring the importance of an early start and adequate hydration. Footwear with sticky rubber will be your ally on the glassy slabs, and a rack emphasizing small cams will be critical on Plateaus where pro placements tighten.
This route is not an introductory climb — it demands confident lead placements, experience with protection that occasionally tests judgement, and willingness to engage with the route’s subtle challenges. But the payoff is an exhilarating balance of physical endurance, mental focus, and the gratification that comes from unraveling a line that threads the cracks, flakes, and bolted sections with equal parts grace and grit.
Protection on pitch two requires vigilance—some placements are subtle and not bomber, so double-check each piece before trusting it fully. Also, avoid climbing in damp conditions as wet slabs become slick quickly. The roof feature suffered partial collapse in 2015; assess rock stability carefully when navigating this section.
Start early to avoid the afternoon heat baking the granite.
Bring double rack of small cams for the second pitch’s tricky pro.
Two 70m ropes are ideal for efficient rappels.
Scout belt placements carefully on pitch two—some are less than bomber.
First pitch is fully bolted, so quickdraws suffice. The second pitch requires a full set of small cams, but placements can be marginal—exercise caution and consider doubling up gear. The last pitch involves minimal protection, mostly one bolt and natural features.
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