HomeClimbingMoonah Luna

Moonah Luna: Classic Trad Climbing in the Horseshoe Lake Area

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
crack climbing
single pitch
granite
trad gear
north-east facing
good for spring
strong jams required
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Moonah Luna
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Moonah Luna offers 55 feet of sustained, technical crack climbing right in Dog Wall’s Horseshoe Lake Area. Strenuous yet fair, this trad route rewards precision gear placements and powerful jams, set against crisp granite and sweeping mountain views."

Moonah Luna: Classic Trad Climbing in the Horseshoe Lake Area

Moonah Luna stands out as a must-try trad climb within the Dog Wall sector of the Horseshoe Piles, offering a direct line up a clean, demanding crack system. This single-pitch gem stretches over 55 feet, challenging climbers with crack jams that require both strength and finesse. The rock's texture speaks to experience, tough enough to push you physically yet rewarding each carefully placed piece of protection. Named affectionately after local climbing partners Moon and Luna, it carries a sense of camaraderie and shared grit.

Approaching from the Mammoth Lakes Area in California’s Sierra Eastside, the climb’s setting feels remote but accessible, framed by stark granite faces that hold the sun’s warmth well into the afternoon. The crack’s strike leans toward the northeast aspect, catching early sun before settling into partial shade later in the day — making spring, early summer, or fall the best seasons for a comfortable ascent.

Gear-wise, the route demands a careful rack, including a red Link Cam, a pair of green C4 cams, three purples, and a hand-sized piece near the top to reach the bolted anchor safely. Protection placements aren’t always obvious, so solid crack climbing skills combined with a keen eye for jams are essential. While challenging, the route’s protection feels secure when you find those key placements, giving confidence on the steep, sustained moves.

The rock beneath your fingertips is smooth granite, its cracks tempting the hands and feet to lock in for steady upward progress. The rhythm of crack climbing here is deliberate: tense moments balance with fluid jams, pressing, twisting, and sliding your way skyward. The climb rewards perseverance with a vantage that opens onto Horseshoe Lake’s quiet surface, reflecting the high Sierra peaks beyond.

Getting there involves a moderate approach hike from the main trailhead in Mammoth Lakes, weaving through open pine groves and rocky outcrops. The path is straightforward but keep an eye on seasonal weather shifts that can affect footing. Expect about 15 to 30 minutes on foot, crossing varied terrain that both warms the body and hones focus for the climb ahead.

Descent from Moonah Luna is straightforward: rappelling down from the bolted anchors leads safely back to the base. Remember to double-check your ropes and setup, as granite surfaces can be abrasive. The route’s location within a broader protected area invites quieter enjoyment, respecting minimal impact principles to preserve this climbing treasure.

Moonah Luna calls out to climbers ready to test their crack climbing skills with a blend of demanding moves and trustworthy protection. Its setting in the Sierra Eastside’s Horseshoe Lake Area creates a balance between accessible wilderness and rock-solid challenge, perfect for trad enthusiasts seeking a rewarding line on clean granite. Whether you’re tightening jams or clipping the anchor, this climb delivers solid adventure with its own brand of crisp, personal satisfaction.

Climber Safety

Watch your foot placements on the approach as some uneven rocks can create tripping hazards. On route, the protection can be sparse in sections, requiring confidence in crack placements. The rappel anchors are solid but always inspect before use; avoid rappelling in wet conditions to prevent rope damage.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Start early to benefit from morning sun on the crack, then enjoy afternoon shade for the descent.

Bring tape gloves or finger tape to protect skin on sustained jams.

Keep an eye on weather forecasts; granite heats up quickly on sunny days in summer.

Rappel carefully from fixed anchors; double-check all your knots and gear.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Moonah Luna offers a solid challenge with a crux that demands strong hands and precise footwork. The grade is fairly true to difficulty but can feel sustained due to the need for continuous jam technique and thoughtful gear placements. For climbers familiar with Sierra granite crack climbs, it compares well to other moderate trad lines in the region, though the protection quality adds a subtle layer of commitment.

Gear Requirements

A solid rack including a red Link Cam, 2 green C4s, 3 purple C4s, and a hand-sized cam near the top will cover your protection needs up to the bolted anchor. Placement can be tricky, so patience and crack technique are essential.

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Tags

crack climbing
single pitch
granite
trad gear
north-east facing
good for spring
strong jams required