Monkey Coefficient offers a compelling slice of Squamish trad climbing that strikes a balance between approachability and character. At just 85 feet and a single pitch, this route invites climbers to engage with the rock’s raw texture without overwhelming commitment. The wall rises steadily with a blend of friction slabs and subtle cracks, leading to a memorable, slightly eerie move mid-route that tests both technique and nerve. This move, while not relentless, carries a distinct edge of challenge, forcing careful foot placement and precise gear placement to protect the fall zone safely. The protection demands where gear up to 4 inches fits snugly, making it a perfect playground for rack-savvy climbers who appreciate the dance of traditional protection.

The climb sits within the Smoke Bluffs area, a cornerstone of Squamish’s climbing landscape, where granite cliffs rise out of dense coastal forest. Underfoot the rock holds a coarse texture, almost gritty, gripping your shoes firmly as you ascend. Whispering breezes thread through the trees, occasionally carrying the distant call of birds and the rustle of leaves. This section of the bluffs provides a quiet refuge from busier sectors, offering space to focus on footwork and breathing rhythm.

Access is straightforward with a short approach through forest trails that lay a mossy carpet beneath towering Douglas firs. The path is well marked and only requires about 15 minutes from the main parking lot, making it ideal for half-day climbs. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon optimizes shade and comfort, especially during warmer months when the granite’s surface heats quickly. Because it’s a single pitch, the route allows for quick turnaround, perfect for those looking to fit in quality climbing without a full expedition.

In addition to the climb itself, local conditions demand respect. Granite here holds firm, but micro-fractures and lichen patches can mislead—stay alert and test holds deliberately. Weather shifts rapidly in this temperate climate, so keep an eye on forecasts and prepare for sudden drizzles. Don’t underestimate the need for solid footwear with sticky soles and a moderate rack tailored for traditional protection up to 4 inches.

Monkey Coefficient doesn’t aim to intimidate, but it won’t let you take the climb casually either. It invites engagement with rock and risk in equal measure, providing an accessible but memorable introduction to Squamish’s vertical playground. Whether carving up a warm-up or chasing a personal milestone, this route underscores why the Smoke Bluffs maintain their reputation as a must-visit for trad climbers craving quality, character, and a connection to the wild coast.