HomeClimbingMonkey Business

Monkey Business: A Classic Trad Climb on Eagle Lake Buttress

South Lake Tahoe,California ,United States
crack climbing
chimney
arete
alpine trad
Lake Tahoe
medium protection
multi-pitch
Grade: 5.10a
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Monkey Business
Aspect
South Facing

Monkey Business

5.10a, Trad, Alpine

South Lake Tahoe

California ,United States

Overview

"Monkey Business on Eagle Lake Buttress offers two pitches of technical alpine trad climbing with a blend of crack, chimney, and slab moves. This route challenges your technique amid soaring granite walls and inviting alpine air, making it a must-try for trad climbers seeking a sharp, rewarding experience near Lake Tahoe."

Monkey Business: A Classic Trad Climb on Eagle Lake Buttress

Monkey Business unfurls on the rugged Eagle Lake Buttress, a striking feature on the west shore of Lake Tahoe that calls climbers craving bold alpine trad lines. The route begins beneath a solitary, weathered juniper that marks the gateway to a route blending technical chimney moves, delicate crack climbing, and intricate face work over two pitches. From the first step into a narrow chimney, the rock challenges you to engage fully—balancing controlled power with precise footwork as you ascend toward a comfortable belay stance perched halfway up the wall. The climbing transitions to a dynamic 5.9 crack slanting right beneath an overhang, demanding steady hand jams and confident body positioning to maintain momentum. Moving left beyond the lip onto a wide crack and slender seam, you navigate shifting holds requiring both reach and finesse. The climb culminates on a small ledge along an exposed arete, where lower-angle slabs guide you naturally toward the East Ridge, a perfect conclusion with wide views across the canyon.

Located in the shadow of Lake Tahoe’s glistening waters, the Eagle Lake Buttress offers no shortage of sensory rewards—the scent of dry pine needles mixing with crisp mountain air, the persistent hum of a distant creek daring you onward, and the sun playing off granite surfaces with ever-changing light. While the terrain is moderate compared to more remote alpine walls, it demands respect: standard rack gear is necessary for solid placements, and the protection opportunities favor nuts and cams that fit medium sizes given the crack profiles. Climbers benefit from sturdy but flexible footwear that offers good sensitivity for both cracks and slab.

Approach is straightforward yet scenic. The trail from parking skirts through mixed forest peppered with granite outcrops, culminating at the juniper base in about 30 minutes. Early mornings or late afternoons provide the best conditions, with cooler temperatures and reduced glare. The route’s position on this west-facing buttress gives morning shade and afternoon sun, making timing important during warmer months.

Monkey Business is a route that rewards attentiveness to both rock and rhythm. The character hinges on clean, sustained crack climbing that increases in complexity as you move upward, with a few crux sections that push the 5.10a rating without being overly punishing. Compared to other classic trad climbs in the Lake Tahoe area, this route presents a balanced introduction to alpine trad with a touch of commitment for those looking to sharpen their trad skills in an inspiring setting.

Before setting foot on this line, ensure your rack covers a full range of cams—particularly mid-sized pieces around finger to hand sizes—and a solid collection of nuts. Expect to manage anchor placements on comfortable ledges but stay alert for loose flakes near the chimney. The descent follows an established scramble down the East Ridge, requiring care on uneven terrain but providing a satisfying cooldown with sweeping views across Eagle Creek Canyon.

Whether you are honing your crack technique or seeking an accessible alpine climb with solid exposure, Monkey Business stands out as an engaging journey into the heart of Lake Tahoe’s quieter climbing realms. Plan your day with hydration and layering in mind, and prepare to meet the wall on its terms—steady, focused, and ready to climb on.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the chimney entrance and remain vigilant about gear placements in these spots. The descent involves scrambling on uneven terrain—take your time to avoid twisted ankles or slips, especially when tired.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10a
TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.

Bring a rack with midsize cams for the key crack sections.

Wear shoes with good sensitivity for a mix of crack and slab moves.

Be cautious of loose flakes near the chimney—test placements carefully.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Monkey Business sits at a sweet spot—challenging but approachable for climbers comfortable with sustained crack sequences. While the grade feels accurate, a few key moves push the difficulty slightly higher due to technical hand jams and transitions around the overhang. Compared to nearby routes like Orange Book, this climb offers a slightly bolder but well-protected experience with some classic alpine features.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack with a strong focus on medium cams and nuts will keep you well protected. The crack systems favor placements in the finger to hand size range, with solid but sometimes sparse gear opportunities near the chimney and arete sections.

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Tags

crack climbing
chimney
arete
alpine trad
Lake Tahoe
medium protection
multi-pitch