"Moffat Boulder captures the essence of Joshua Tree bouldering with its compact size and standout problem Chili Sauce (V7). Located near Headstone Rock, it offers desert granite challenges within a short hike, ideal for climbers seeking quality over quantity in their session."
Moffat Boulder sits quietly on the desert floor just down and right of Headstone Rock, offering a concentrated dose of bouldering that’s both challenging and approachable. At approximately 4,400 feet elevation, this compact rock holds one standout problem known locally as Chili Sauce, or the Moffat Problem (V7). Its west face commands attention from climbers coming through the Ryan Campground and Headstone circuit, making it a prized destination for those wanting to test their technique on classic Joshua Tree desert granite without the fuss of large approaches or complicated trails.
The experience begins with a short, straightforward hike to the southwest corner of the rubble pile where Headstone Rock looms, and the Moffat Boulder sits just around the bend from the Matatte' Boulder. The terrain is typical desert scrub — sandy soil punctuated by hardy bushes and the occasional cluster of junipers. Weather conditions can shift rapidly, so timing climbs for the cooler months — primarily from late fall through early spring — ensures the best combination of grip and comfort. Summers are relentlessly hot while winter days tend to bring perfect, crisp air.
Chili Sauce stands out as the classic send here. Rated V7, it demands precise movement and power, rewarding climbers who can negotiate its tricky crimps and dynamic moves. The rock’s texture is a familiar Joshua Tree granitic feel: coarse, secure, and unforgiving when you slip. Although Moffat Boulder features just a handful of problems, the quality of movement and the compactness of the venue compresses a lot of adventure into a small but intense package.
Climbers should note the climbing regulations set by Joshua Tree National Park: vegetation cannot be used as anchors, and bolt hangers must be neutral or rock-colored, preserving the park’s natural aesthetic and ecological integrity. Seasonal closures to protect nesting raptors also apply, so checking with the park’s official guidelines before heading out is essential.
Aside from the climbing, the area offers a crisp, desert atmosphere punctuated by views of the surrounding boulders and the wide open sky. The approach path is short and manageable, making it an excellent afternoon destination or a focused stop on a longer bouldering excursion.
Whether you’re dialing in your power on Chili Sauce or soaking in the stark desert landscape, Moffat Boulder delivers a pure Joshua Tree bouldering experience that is straightforward yet rewarding. This is the kind of place where careful footwork and steady patience translate to moments of sting and strength, connecting you with the raw rock beneath your hands and the desert beyond.
Falls here can land on uneven, rocky desert soil, so use multiple pads and spotters to protect landings. Be mindful of seasonal closures protecting raptors and avoid disturbing vegetation around the boulder.
Check seasonal raptor closures before visiting to avoid restricted access.
Bring multiple bouldering pads to protect against the rocky desert landing.
Best climbed in cooler months—spring and fall offer ideal temperatures.
Parking is near Ryan Campground; expect a short, uneven walk to the base.
Standard bouldering pads are recommended, with a minimum of two pads for adequate protection of the falls around the base of Chili Sauce. Spotting is essential due to the uneven desert floor. No vegetation can be used as anchors and only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are permitted on bolts.
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