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Modern Warfare Trad Climb in Joshua Tree National Park

Twentynine Palms, California United States
wide crack
off-width
single pitch
desert climbing
hand jams
dry crack
Joshua Tree National Park
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Modern Warfare
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Modern Warfare offers a welcoming wide crack challenge in Joshua Tree’s Beak Boulder area. This single-pitch trad climb helps climbers refine off-width skills set against the desert’s striking rock and clear skies."

Modern Warfare Trad Climb in Joshua Tree National Park

Modern Warfare stands as an accessible introduction to wide crack climbing in the stark beauty of Joshua Tree National Park. Spanning 45 feet over a single pitch, this route offers a straightforward yet engaging challenge, perfect for climbers ready to test their off-width skills in a low-angle environment that rewards technique over brute strength. The crack is broad, inviting hands to find secure jams deep inside, encouraging a mindful rhythm and steady progress. As you ascend, the crisp desert air mingles with the faint scent of creosote, while sun-dappled rock warms your skin. The climb’s wide nature toggles between firm hand jams and the need for solid body positioning—making it a useful practice ground before committing to more intense cracks in the region.

Protection is well supported by a single rack ranging from a #1 Camalot up to a larger #4.5 Camalot, with doubles on mid-sized cams (#3 to #3.5) to back up key placements. Anchoring at the top is straightforward using the smaller cams, lending confidence to the belayer and climber alike. The rock quality is typical Joshue Tree granite—generally solid but with occasional patches requiring cautious gear evaluation.

Getting to Modern Warfare means an off-trail approach through sandy desert terrain spotted with iconic yucca and towering boulders. The route sits in the Beak Boulder area, a lesser-traveled section offering quiet focus and open skies. Ideal climbing conditions occur in the cooler months, as summer’s heat can be intense during midday. Morning or late afternoon climbs bring a softer light and manageable temperatures. The wall faces southeast, so expect direct sun in the morning, cooling as the day progresses.

Prepare with sturdy climbing shoes that handle crack jams well, and pack plenty of water to stay hydrated in the dry climate. Approach shoes or trail runners are suitable for the stroll over uneven desert ground. Remember that Joshua Tree’s fragile ecosystem requires respect; pack out all trash and tread lightly.

Descent is a simple walk-off, dropping back down sandy slopes toward the approach trail—no need for technical rappels, allowing a smooth finish to your outing. Local climbers appreciate Modern Warfare as a practical skill builder, blending approachable climbing with the serene stillness of the high desert. Whether tuning crack techniques or soaking in the wide-open Joshua Tree landscape, this route invites a thoughtful connection between climber and stone.

Climber Safety

Watch for occasional loose flakes in the crack; gear placements should be tested carefully, and watch footing on sandy sections near the base. The desert environment demands proper hydration and sun protection—plan climbs during cooler periods to avoid heat exhaustion.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat desert heat, especially during summer.

Bring a wide range of cams, focusing on sizes from #1 to #4.5.

Wear crack-friendly climbing shoes for better grip inside wide cracks.

Respect Joshua Tree’s ecosystem by following Leave No Trace principles.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade feels fair for this wide crack, offering a solid challenge that leans more on technique than raw power. Climbers familiar with thinner cracks will find the hands-deep jams a new test of control. Compared to other Joshua Tree cracks, it's on the approachable side, making it a great step up for those ready to add off-width climbing to their skillset.

Gear Requirements

A single rack ranging from #1 to #4.5 Camalots covers the route well, with doubles recommended in the mid sizes (#3 to #3.5); smaller cams secure the anchor at the top.

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Tags

wide crack
off-width
single pitch
desert climbing
hand jams
dry crack
Joshua Tree National Park