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Military Industrial Complex - Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Twentynine Palms, California USA
thin face
overhang
trad
single pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
bolt-protected
fractured granite
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Military Industrial Complex
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Military Industrial Complex delivers a sharp trad challenge on Joshua Tree’s Hall of Horrors wall. With a thin face crux moving into a lively overhang, this single-pitch climb balances technical finesse with fun movement amid desert spires."

Military Industrial Complex - Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Military Industrial Complex presents a focused trad climbing experience on the East Wall Inner sector of Joshua Tree National Park's iconic Hall of Horrors area. This 80-foot single-pitch route challenges climbers with a sequence of thin face moves that demand precise footwork and confident balance. The initial crux is a delicate dance against the rock's subtle features, leading you directly into a playful overhang that contrasts the opening’s air of concentration with spirited motion. Above the overhang, the rock eases into a more straightforward face section that grants a satisfying finish.

The climb is protected by two well-placed bolts supplemented by traditional gear placements at the belay, making it essential to bring a modest rack with cams and nuts to secure confident protection where bolts aren’t present. Located in the Hall of Horrors—a less trafficked area of Sheep Pass—the route sits amid Joshua Tree’s famous granite spires that rise sharply into the clear desert sky, offering spectacular views of rugged desert flats and distant ranges.

Approaching Military Industrial Complex is an inviting affair, with a short approach hike over sandy, rocky terrain that tests your footing but rewards with a quiet and focused climbing environment. The wall faces northeast, providing shade for much of the morning and warming comfortably into the afternoon, allowing for flexible climbing windows outside the peak desert midday heat.

For climbers preparing to take on this 5.10a climb, attention to footwear that excels in edging on smooth granite and a steady hand on gear placement will make the ascent more enjoyable. The protection, while straightforward, requires careful placement to bridge the bolts safely. The rock offers excellent friction but demands respect for the overhang’s subtle bulge where power and technique converge.

Descending after topping out involves a single rappel from the bolts back to the base, making sure to check all gear and anchors before committing. Summertime climbers should bring ample water and sun protection for the approach, while fall and spring provide ideal temperatures for technical climbing. Military Industrial Complex offers both the mental intrigue of precise moves and the practical simplicity of a single pitch, carving out a rewarding adventure in the heart of Joshua Tree’s desert landscape.

Climber Safety

The route’s protection blends bolts and traditional gear; climbers should be confident placing solid pro in granite cracks. The rappel descent is straightforward but requires thorough anchor checks to avoid gear complications. The approach includes uneven desert footing—watch for loose rock and heat exposure during midday.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the northeast-facing wall.

Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for the thin face moves.

Double-check rappel anchors before descending—only a single rappel required.

Carry plenty of water for the desert approach and stay sun-safe during warmer months.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Military Industrial Complex offers a crisp crux that tests precision and balance. The grade feels true to the Yosemite Decimal System with the thin face moves demanding technical finesse. The route’s overhang adds a short burst of power, making this more than a straightforward 5.10. Compared to nearby Joshua Tree classics, it stands as a punchy single pitch that challenges but remains accessible to fit trad climbers comfortable in the low double digits.

Gear Requirements

Bring a small trad rack including cams and nuts to complement the two bolts. The belay requires gear placements; prepare for precise placements on clean granite.

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Tags

thin face
overhang
trad
single pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
bolt-protected
fractured granite