"Midnight Express tests your trad skills right from the start, with a tricky crux that demands precise holds and confident gear placement. This single-pitch route in Quebec's Laurentians offers a sharp climb that rewards focus and technique with striking rock and an accessible descent."
Midnight Express commands your full attention from the moment you grip its base. Situated within the rugged Laurentians near Val-David, this single-pitch trad route demands finesse and resolve, especially on the initial moves that set the tone for the ascent. The opening crux is a puzzle of balance and strength—players working their way through the first horizontal crack must iron out their sequence, hunting for a solid hold on a less-than-friendly edge. As you surmount this key obstacle, the climb opens to a cleaner, more forgiving dihedral that ascends straight up past a distinctive roof feature on the left. Above this roof, the rock eases, allowing climbers to push past into easier terrain where momentum is your ally to the top anchor.
The approach to Midnight Express threads through quiet forest paths typical of the Laurentian region, with pine and birch standing as silent witnesses to your climb ahead. The air carries the scent of damp earth and resin, a grounding reminder of the wilderness surrounding you. Once on the wall, the rock’s texture is gritty and reliable, yet the route’s protective gear demands careful attention—small to medium cams fit best, and the retrofitted bolts at the base provide a welcome anchor point but do not lessen the need for sharp trad placements.
Although a single pitch, the climb compresses its challenge into 100 feet of vertical rock that senses every hesitation. The PG13 rating signals thin protection through the crux section; climbers should clip with caution and prepare a stick clip to reach the first bolt safely. This demands both respect and preparation, rewarding those who come equipped with sound gear and a steady approach.
Midnight Express thrives in the mid-morning light, with the north-facing wall warming gradually as the sun edges higher. Seasonally, late spring through early fall offers the best conditions—avoid wet rock or icy patches that can turn holds from firm to treacherous. After the climb, the descent follows a straightforward walk-off along a durable trail descending to the trailhead, easing the transition back to the forest floor.
Whether you’re pushing your technical limits or seeking a concentrated trad test in the Laurentians, Midnight Express stands out with its blend of mental and physical challenges. Familiarity with precise gear placement and a cool head at the crux will turn this climb into a memorable highlight on your Quebec climbing itinerary.
The initial crux has limited protection and awkward holds; falling here puts stress on the anchored bolt below, so a careful stick clip is crucial. The rock quality is mostly solid, but care should be taken around the roof where loose flakes have been reported. Avoid climbs during wet or icy conditions as the holds lose their integrity.
Bring a stick clip to safely clip the initial bolt without risking a fall.
Use small to medium cams for the protection; larger sizes won’t fit the lower cracks.
Start early for afternoon warmth on the cool north-facing wall.
Plan the descent via the well-marked trail behind the climb—avoid loose rock sections.
The bottom section features retro bolts installed to assist climbers, but the protection mainly relies on small to medium trad gear. A stick clip is highly advisable to safely reach the first bolt. Expect to carry a set tuned for tighter cracks and placements suited to less consistent holds.
Upload your photos of Midnight Express and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.