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Mental Floss at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Welsford, Canada
corner crack
sparse protection
beginner trad
top rope recommended
limestone
short pitch
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mental Floss
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mental Floss is a deceptively demanding 50-foot trad climb at Cochrane Lane Cliffs, challenging climbers with tricky gear placements and a sharp corner line. Often done on top rope, it offers a focused test of technique and patience in a peaceful New Brunswick setting."

Mental Floss at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Mental Floss presents an unexpectedly challenging climb despite its modest 5.6 PG13 rating, tucked into the rugged contours of the Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick. The route follows a pronounced corner system, requiring a steady hand and sharp focus as you ascend the roughly 50-foot vertical stretch. While the main line sticks to the corner’s natural groove, alternative variations push climbers out left over an overhang at 5.9 difficulty, or travel directly up the face at 5.8, both demanding not only confidence in technique but also an eye for sparse protection placements. Gear is hard to find along the line, making this a climb that rewards cautious, deliberate moves rather than fast pushing. Because of the limited and sometimes unreliable gear, Mental Floss is usually tackled on a top rope, offering a safer way to experience the rock without the stress of lead climbing on marginal protection. Climbers should take note of a serious incident in 2018 when several pieces of gear were pulled from the route, leading to a ground fall that thankfully did not cause lasting injury. Setups for top ropes are straightforward here, providing an accessible option for those who want to enjoy the crack and face features without the risk. The rock is firm, but sections of loose flakes call for vigilance, pushing climbers to test each hold before committing. Approaching the cliff, you’ll find a relatively short hike over mixed forest trails, with the cliff face often basking in morning light, cooling in the afternoon shadow. This low-commitment climb is ideal for warming up or practicing crack techniques in a quiet setting, away from busier New Brunswick crags. Gear up with a standard rack, focusing on cams that fit fingers and thin hands, and be ready for placements to hide in subtle seams rather than obvious pockets. Mental Floss blends approachable length with a dose of mental focus, making it a memorable test of controlled movement and gear judgment amidst New Brunswick’s limestone walls.

Climber Safety

This route demands vigilance with gear placements; older or loose protection can fail, as evidenced by a past fall incident. Loose flakes near the base can cause slips, and a ground fall is a genuine risk. Top roping is recommended unless you have high confidence in your trad rack and placement skills.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Set up a top rope from the ledge above for safer climbing.

Test all gear placements carefully before weighting.

Morning light hits the cliff, making early starts preferable.

Wear sturdy shoes to navigate the loose rock approaching the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.6 PG13, Mental Floss feels stiffer than its grade suggests because of the tricky protection and the need for precise technique on the corner. The PG13 rating warns of potentially serious falls, making it feel more committing than other local 5.6 routes. The overhang variation at 5.9 offers a crux that raises the difficulty and gear challenges, suitable for stronger climbers looking for a bold finish.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with emphasis on small to medium cams. Protection is sparse and placements are often subtle—solid gear instincts are necessary. Fixed gear is minimal; approach with caution and double-check any anchors.

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Tags

corner crack
sparse protection
beginner trad
top rope recommended
limestone
short pitch