HomeClimbingMemorial Crack

Memorial Crack: Classic Trad Climbing on The Apron in Squamish

Squamish, Canada
trad crack
corner climb
moderate difficulty
granite
single pitch
Squamish Buttress access
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Memorial Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Memorial Crack is a classic 5.9 trad route on The Apron that offers direct access to Squamish’s iconic granite walls. It’s a perfect blend of solid crack climbing and efficient protection placements, ideal for those looking to explore the left side of the Apron or link up with higher routes."

Memorial Crack: Classic Trad Climbing on The Apron in Squamish

Memorial Crack offers a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to trad climbing on the famed Apron wall of Squamish. This one-pitch route, stretching approximately 100 feet, guides climbers up a clean crack and natural corner that slices through the granite face, inviting both novices and seasoned climbers to engage with Squamish’s legendary rock. The climb’s moderate 5.9 rating reflects a balanced challenge, requiring solid crack technique and confidence in gear placements. As you ascend, the crack’s edges feel responsive, almost daring you to trust your hands and feet in the intricate interplay between granite and synthetic protection.

The route situates you comfortably on the left side of the Apron, making it an excellent launchpad for those aiming to reach the higher Squamish Buttress or tackle the expansive Ultimate Everything. For climbers wanting to bypass the long approach on Broadway to Broomstick Crack, Memorial Crack provides a more direct, engaging alternative. Below and around you, the granite feels alive: textured enough to give grip but smooth where the passage opens into the corner, offering moments of respite.

The environment amplifies the experience. The Apron’s exposed face catches early sun, warming the rock and offering pleasant conditions in the cooler months, while light breezes flowing through the valley help refresh weary forearms. The air carries faint hints of cedar and fir from the nearby forest, a grounding connection to the wilderness surrounding this climbing hotspot.

Gear-wise, bring protection up to 4 inches—standard nuts, cams, and a few larger pieces are essential for safe, confident placements. The crack itself accommodates gear with solid jams and secure placements, but vigilance is key: some sections require searching for less obvious slots to maximize protection.

Access is straightforward with the vibrant town of Squamish just minutes away, yet the climb manages to preserve a quiet sense of remoteness. Approaching the Apron is a short trek from the base area, manageable in under 30 minutes on well-marked trails. Packing efficiently with water and weather-appropriate clothing will ensure you’re comfortable throughout your session.

Memorial Crack combines manageable technicality with the dynamic spirit of Squamish climbing. Whether you’re sharpening crack skills or seeking a stepping stone to more ambitious routes, this climb delivers a reliable blend of fun, challenge, and scenic payoff. Prepare well, climb smart, and soak in the expansive views that remind you why Squamish remains a pilgrimage for rock climbers worldwide.

Climber Safety

While placements are typically solid, some sections require searching carefully for gear—keep an attentive eye to avoid long falls. The descent area can be slippery when wet, so plan accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler rock temperatures and avoid the afternoon sun.

Bring tape to protect your hands during sustained crack jams.

Carry hydration and snacks for the approach and climb.

Scout the gear placements carefully before committing on lead.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Memorial Crack feels true to grade with sustained crack climbing and no surprise hard moves. It’s a reliable challenge for those comfortable with finger to hand-sized jams and placing protection on varied cracks. Compared to nearby routes, it’s a bit more approachable than Ultimate Everything while still offering solid technical climbing.

Gear Requirements

Requires a standard trad rack with cams and nuts up to 4 inches. The crack hosts solid placements but demands attention to detail for the best gear positions.

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Tags

trad crack
corner climb
moderate difficulty
granite
single pitch
Squamish Buttress access