HomeClimbingMedicated Drama Queen

Medicated Drama Queen: Technical Sport Climbing on Avalon Peninsula

St. John's, Canada
face climbing
technical moves
8-bolt protection
stick-clip recommended
single pitch
cool coastal wind
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Medicated Drama Queen
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Medicated Drama Queen on Flatrock’s Main Face delivers an 80-foot technical sport climb where precision and control take center stage. With well-spaced bolts and a tricky upper section, this route rewards steady climbers eager to test their face technique against Newfoundland’s coastal winds."

Medicated Drama Queen: Technical Sport Climbing on Avalon Peninsula

Medicated Drama Queen stakes its claim on the Main Face of Flatrock, demanding precision and focus on this dynamic 80-foot single-pitch route. From the moment you clip the first bolt, the wall challenges with technical face climbing that tests finger strength and footwork on clean, smooth rock. As you ascend, the holds appear sly and strategic, requiring steady balance and careful positioning to maintain upward momentum. The route’s unique character unfolds in the upper section, where the exit moves demand extra attention—avoid the corner to access the full suite of challenging sequences that reward climbers with a satisfying sense of accomplishment. The rock here is sharp and honest, and the 8-bolt protection feels reassuring yet encourages decisive clipping. Stick-clipping is highly advised to save energy and reduce any awkward early stretching.

Flatrock’s coastal environment adds another layer to the experience. Sea breezes drift through the route’s exposure, hinting at the expansive North Atlantic beyond and lending a brisk freshness that invigorates climbers but also calls for layered clothing on cooler days. The approach to the Main Face is straightforward though unassuming, placing you in this remote corner of Newfoundland with little else but the sound of waves and wind to accompany your climb. The area’s latitude means late spring through early fall is the ideal climbing window, avoiding winter chill and slippery conditions.

Practical preparation here is key. Good rubber on shoes will help tame the subtle face tension, and a light rack focusing on sport-specific gear suffices—stick-clip included to handle that first bolt cleanly without strain. The route’s moderate length and single pitch make it accessible for a solid half-day session, perfect for climbers aiming to push into mid-5.11 difficulties with impeccable technique. Whether you’re an experienced sport climber drawn to technical challenges or looking to sharpen skill on precise face climbing, Medicated Drama Queen offers an engaging, no-frills experience set against a quietly dramatic Newfoundland backdrop.

Climber Safety

Beware of the upper corner section—avoiding it is essential to unlock the full challenge. Rock quality is solid but sharp; use caution clipping bolts, and prepare for wind gusts that might affect balance near the anchors.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Stick-clip the first bolt to avoid awkward reaches and save energy.

Bring shoes with excellent edging capability for small face holds.

Check wind conditions beforehand; coastal breezes can be chilly.

Aim to climb during late spring to early fall for optimal dry conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11+, Medicated Drama Queen demands controlled face climbing with precise footwork. The grade is fairly stiff, especially through the exit moves which can feel like a crux. Climbers familiar with similar mid-5.11 sport routes in the region will find this a solid benchmark for technical challenge and endurance.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by 8 bolts and an anchor. Climbers should bring a stick-clip for safely clipping the first bolt and energy conservation.

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Tags

face climbing
technical moves
8-bolt protection
stick-clip recommended
single pitch
cool coastal wind