"Median is a focused trad pitch on Rattlesnake Point's Main Wall that tests balance and gear skills. With a distinctive roof move and a guiding gully, this accessible climb offers an authentic taste of Ontario trad rock."
Median is a straightforward yet engaging traditional climb that invites adventurers to connect with the rock in a demanding, intimate way. Set on the vertical corner beneath two solid belay bolts perched on a ledge, this route presents a classic line that flows naturally along a tight gully. The climb begins where the rock feels alive—granite edges textured and tactile—just below a sturdy roof sheltered by a large, well-rooted tree. Pushing through this low ceiling demands careful moves and steady footing, as the route challenges you to test your balance and gear placements. As you ascend past the roof, the gully guiding you upwards offers a natural channel that both shelters and directs the climb.
Situated on the Main Wall within the renowned Rattlesnake Point area, Median blends accessible difficulty with the thrill of genuine trad climbing. Ontario South Bouldering and Rock’s famed Golden Horseshoe region offers varied terrain, but this route stands out for its clean features and natural protection opportunities. Though it’s just one pitch, climbers experience a full taste of the area’s rugged character without a lengthy approach or complicated logistics.
Protection is essential here; the rock demands well-planned gear placements to feel secure through the moves. While the route is rated 5.0, the crux lies in negotiating the roof and navigating the gully above, where precise footwork and thoughtful timing matter. This makes Median an ideal introduction to trad climbing for those eager to build confidence on dependable gear and natural features.
On approach, expect a short but occasionally uneven hike from the base parking lot, with clear signage directing you to Rattlesnake Point’s Main Wall. The trail snakes through a mix of forest floor and rocky outcrops, the cool shade offering relief on warmer days. The coordinates lead you right to the established belay ledge, an inviting spot to set up anchors and prepare your rack.
Ideal climbing times fall in spring through fall, when dry conditions prevail and the granite holds offer reliable friction. The wall faces northeast, providing a balance of morning sun and afternoon shade, which helps regulate temperature during warm or cool spells. Descents are straightforward with a controlled rappel from the belay bolts or a careful downclimb nearby—just watch for loose rock and keep your footholds deliberate.
Local climbers recommend carrying a standard rack with a mix of cams and nuts, focusing on smaller to medium-sized protection for the tight placements under the roof. While the route doesn’t demand extensive gear, confidence in quick, solid placements will enhance the overall experience.
Median offers both a physical and mental puzzle against a backdrop of sweeping elevation and quiet natural beauty. Its clear line and honest climbing make it a rewarding choice for anyone ready to experience trad in a concentrated, approachable package. Whether you're sharpening your skills or taking your first steps into traditional climbing, Median’s blend of nature and challenge beckons with steady promise.
While the climb offers solid rock, the roof area requires cautious gear placement and movement to avoid slips. Be mindful of loose debris on the ledge and secure all gear to prevent dropping it down the gully.
Approach trail is rocky and shaded, wear sturdy footwear and allow 15-20 minutes to reach the base.
Check weather before climbing; granite is slick when wet, making protection trickier.
Use gloves if your rack has metal wires to protect your hands during gear placements below the roof.
Carry a spare quickdraw or two to clip into the belay bolts for a safer belay setup.
Ensure a well-balanced trad rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts to fit the corner cracks and roof section. Two belay bolts are fixed at the ledge for secure anchors.
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