HomeClimbingMauvaise Herbe

Mauvaise Herbe: A Crisp, Technical Sport Climb in the Laurentians

Laurentians, Quebec Canada
technical
sport climbing
single pitch
thin moves
slab finish
quick drying
moderate approach
Laurentians
Length: 85 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mauvaise Herbe
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mauvaise Herbe is a precise 85-foot sport climb on Montagne d'Argent offering technical moves that demand balance and focus. Ideal for climbers seeking a nuanced challenge surrounded by peaceful woodland trails, this route blends smooth rock with manageable access and quick drying conditions."

Mauvaise Herbe: A Crisp, Technical Sport Climb in the Laurentians

Mauvaise Herbe presents a compelling single-pitch sport climb perched on the granite faces of Montagne d'Argent, deep within Quebec’s Laurentian range. This modest 85-foot route demands a blend of balance and precision right from the start, where thin, deliberate moves test your control as you ascend past the third bolt. Here, the wall presents a choice: veer left onto a less steep section offering reprieve and straightforward clipping, or commit to the more direct line. The rock’s texture, rough yet inviting, provides just enough grip, while the evolving angle guides you naturally toward a small resting niche. This pause is not just physical but mental—a moment to gather breath and focus for the concluding sequence. From this niche, the climb resumes with slender moves aiming diagonally upward and to the left, where careful footwork and fingertip strength come into play. The final bolt clips snugly before a clean slab finish, offering a chance to exhale into the open air.

Located near the town of Laurentians, Mauvaise Herbe sits in a setting marked by quiet forests and accessible mountain trails, making it an excellent choice for climbers who appreciate technical challenges without a punishing approach. The climb dries quickly after rain, enhancing reliability for spontaneous weekend visits. While the line is bolted throughout with 5 to 6 solid anchors and finishes at a bolted rappel station, climbers should prepare for moments requiring steadiness and composure rather than brute strength. The route’s 5.10d rating reflects those subtle but sharp cruxes that feel demanding yet fair, rewarding climbers willing to refine their foot placement and movement smoothness.

Practical considerations for Mauvaise Herbe include wearing shoes that balance sensitivity and edging response, and packing a light rack focused primarily on quickdraws for bolts and a few slings for anchors. The approach trail is manageable, with only a short hike through mixed woodland that feels alive with quiet natural energy—surrounded by pines that sway gently and underfoot carpets of moss that invite quiet steps. Timing your climb to avoid mid-afternoon heat is advisable, as the southern exposure can bake the rock, while morning or late afternoon offers cooler, grippier conditions. This climb delivers a focused, technical experience where every move counts, set against a backdrop of understated wilderness and crisp mountain air.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing around the niche where the rock angle slackens; balance can feel delicate here. The bolts are secure but stay alert on the slab finish where slips could lead to longer falls. Approach trails may be slick when wet—good footwear is advised.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun warming the rock.

Wear climbing shoes with sensitive edging to handle thin moves.

Expect the route to dry quickly after rain, making it a reliable stop.

Use the resting niche mid-route to shake off pumps and prepare for the crux.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d grade feels precise, with balance-heavy moves that lean on technique over raw power. While the grade matches local standards, the climb’s thin, contoured sections provide a distinct and satisfying challenge that may surprise climbers used to more jug-filled routes.

Gear Requirements

This climb is fully bolted with 5 to 6 bolts leading to a bolted rappel anchor. Use standard quickdraws for clipping and a light rack as there are no traditional protections required.

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Tags

technical
sport climbing
single pitch
thin moves
slab finish
quick drying
moderate approach
Laurentians