"Mashed Bananas delivers a focused crack climb on the Lower West Wall’s rugged granite in Yukon, testing your technique with hand jams, laybacks, and a distinctive chimney section. This single pitch demands careful gear placements and body control amid a wild northern setting."
Mashed Bananas challenges you with a single pitch of technical crack climbing on the rugged Lower West Wall of Golden Canyon in the Yukon Territory. This climb demands both patience and precision as you navigate a sequence of jams, laybacks, and chimney moves that test your range and strength. Beginning with a scramble onto a small ledge, you immediately confront a deep crack requiring a confident right-arm jam, while your left side presses against the flared rock for balance. The rock’s texture invites close contact; every hold asks for commitment. As you shimmy upward, your body shifts into a mantle at an awkward ledge, a move that sets the tone for the intricate hand and fist jams that follow. Interspersed with small crimps, these jams push your technique and control.
Midway, the route opens to a chimney section where the rock seems to squeeze in, demanding you to invert and twist your way upward. This chimney stretch offers a dynamic change of pace — you wrench, shimmy, and squeeze your way through, feeling the rock’s subtle converse as you break free onto open face climbing. The final portion demands finesse to reach the top, with shorter climbers possibly finding an easier sequence as thinner body positions help here.
Protection on Mashed Bananas is straightforward but deliberate: gear up to 5 inches is required, with careful placement in deep cracks. The route’s character changes near the top with two bolts over the lip, used to build a secure anchor or set a top rope with a unique rope-through-hole setup. The rock quality is solid, and gear placements hold well, giving confidence in protection despite the route’s technical demands.
Approach is as much a part of the experience as the climb itself. The Lower West Wall sits within a dramatic northern landscape where crisp air and quiet wilderness frame your climb. Expect a short hike through mixed terrain leading to the base of the wall. Weather here can turn quickly, so plan your ascent during stable, dry conditions, and bring layers to adapt to the chill or sudden sun exposure. Footwear with sticky rubber and flexible ankles will help handle the crack sequences and awkward mantles.
This route is a true test of crack climbing skills for those ready to engage with Yukon’s rugged beauty. It blends technical moves with a wilderness atmosphere that keeps you alert and present, all while providing solid pro opportunities and a unique top anchor system. If your goal is to push your trad skills amid sweeping northern walls, Mashed Bananas rewards precise jamming and steady movement with a memorable, full-body climb.
The chimney section demands careful body positioning; falls here could be risky due to rock ledges and tight spaces. Protection placements are solid but require precision—place gear thoroughly to ensure security. Approach should be planned to avoid wet rock and sudden weather shifts common in the Yukon.
Approach the base via a short, mixed-terrain hike—wear sturdy boots for uneven ground
Stable dry weather is essential; granite cracks become tricky and slippery when damp
Bring finger tape for the right-hand jam section—it helps protect against abrasion
Top rope anchors are set with bolts and a hole in the roof—practice rigging before the climb
You’ll need a rack with protection up to 5 inches, including doubles from 1 to 4 inches. The route requires placing medium-sized cams in deep cracks. Near the top, two bolts provide opportunities for a solid anchor or top-rope setup, where it’s recommended to thread the rope through the hole in the roof for a direct hang.
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