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Mary Ann at Lac Long: A Classic Trad Line in Charlevoix

Quebec City, Canada
trad gear
dihedral
single pitch
mantle move
south-facing
bolted anchor
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mary Ann
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mary Ann delivers a concentrated chunk of trad climbing on a striking dihedral in Quebec's Charlevoix region. With a bold mantle onto a large ledge before a sustained dihedral pitch, this route blends technical moves with solid protection and immersive natural views."

Mary Ann at Lac Long: A Classic Trad Line in Charlevoix

Mary Ann offers a focused and rewarding trad climbing experience on the rugged walls of Lac Long, within Quebec’s Charlevoix region. Starting with a demanding approach up to a prominent overhang, the climb challenges you to carefully secure protection before moving left onto a substantial ledge that demands a precise mantle move. The transition here tests your technique and composure, as the rock’s texture demands solid footwork and secure handholds.

From this large ledge, the route plunges vertically into a prominent dihedral that defines the crux of the climb. This striking feature invites steady, committed climbing as you ascend its crisp corners, feeling the rock’s grip and the fresh air that sweeps along this exposed face. The dihedral’s layout encourages confident use of traditional gear placements, adding to the tactile connection with the route and your surroundings.

With 85 feet of climbing contained in a single pitch, Mary Ann strikes a balance between a short yet intense adventure. The traditional protection setup demands a well-rounded rack, supplemented by two fixed bolts and a bolted anchor for added safety at the top. This route's mixture of protection options makes it approachable for those comfortable with trad gear but also appreciating the security of fixed points.

Beyond physical demands, the climb rewards with sweeping views of the surrounding forests and the calm surface of Lac Long below, where the breeze rustles through the trees and underscores the quiet wilderness atmosphere. Its south-facing orientation means morning ascents catch the warming sun, while afternoons bring cooling shade, ideal for pacing your climb accordingly.

Practical considerations include sturdy footwear to handle the varied rock textures and a focus on hydration, as the approach involves a moderate hike through mixed terrain. Access is straightforward with well-marked trails starting near the southern sector of Lac Long, putting you at the base within 25 minutes.

Mary Ann stands out not just for its physical demands but for the rhythmic flow it encourages — from careful gear placements at the roof to the sustained movement through the dihedral. It's a route where each move connects you with the rock’s contours, making it a memorable challenge for both newer trad climbers and those seeking a reliable line in a spectacular natural setting.

Climber Safety

The mantle move onto the large ledge requires careful body positioning and secure protection placements. The rock is generally sound, but climbers should remain cautious of loose debris near the roof and watch footing as the dihedral can feel exposed in wind.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is well-marked but involves moderate elevation gain; wear supportive hiking shoes.

Start your climb early to enjoy the sun on the south-facing face before afternoon shade arrives.

Bring enough water as the trail and route offer no natural water sources.

Double-check your trad rack for smaller cams and nuts to manage tricky placement spots under the roof.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, Mary Ann offers a solid challenge that isn’t overly stiff but requires a confident execution of the mantle and steady technique in the dihedral. The grade feels balanced—demanding good footwork and trad gear skills, similar in commitment to other single-pitch trad climbs in the Charlevoix area.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack is essential for this climb, complemented by two fixed bolts and a bolted anchor. Expect to place protection carefully around the initial mantle and throughout the dihedral section.

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Tags

trad gear
dihedral
single pitch
mantle move
south-facing
bolted anchor