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Martian Route at Keyhole Rock: A Scrappy Sport Climb with Character

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
small ledges
balance moves
bird cave
sparse protection
toprope possible
East Face
Colorado climbing
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Martian Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Martian Route offers a compact fling up small ledges with balance-focused moves and a quirky bird cave feature. Located on Keyhole Rock’s East Face, this 5.8 sport climb delivers a practical challenge with a splash of local character."

Martian Route at Keyhole Rock: A Scrappy Sport Climb with Character

Nestled in the rugged expanse of Garden of the Gods, the Martian Route on Keyhole Rock’s East Face offers a brief but distinct climbing experience that balances technical demands with quirky charm. At only 60 feet, this single-pitch sport climb is a playground of small ledges and balance-intensive moves that test foothold precision and body control over pure power. The route’s signature feature is a small bird cave halfway up, its interior surprisingly alive with the scent and texture of local wildlife activity—an offbeat touch that invites climbers to embrace the natural, unpolished reality of this line.

Starting from solid but sparse holds, the climb quickly pushes you into maneuvering across ledges that demand concentration more than brute strength. The protection bolts, while relatively sparse at three visible placements instead of the four noted in most guides, are positioned to challenge leaders’ nerves, especially as the first clipper is located well above the ground, inviting a measured and confident ascent.

Keyhole Rock itself stands proud within the broader Garden of the Gods area, a unique blend of sandstone formations rising sharply against the broad Colorado sky. The approach is short and accessible from Colorado Springs, descending into an environment that blends the openness of the high plains with the rugged textures of desert rock, punctuated by bursts of local flora.

For those planning to send the Martian Route, the climb can be toproped using a secure two-pin plus bolt anchor, allowing for safe practice runs before committing to the lead. The rock’s texture varies from chunky holds to smoother slabs requiring deliberate foot placement to maintain balance.

While the route’s 5.8 rating suggests moderate difficulty, the sparse bolt spacing and specific move demands lend a slightly stiffer edge to the climb than the grade alone might imply. Climbers familiar with similar Garden of the Gods routes will recognize the feel—manageable but requiring patience and focus, especially for those newer to sport climbing.

Practical tips for an enjoyable outing include timing your climb to avoid the harsh midday sun, as the East Face warms quickly and shadows retreat early. Adequate hydration and sturdy climbing shoes with excellent edging capability are essential to navigate the delicate footwork successfully. Given the strong presence of natural wildlife around the bird cave, expect occasional scents and textures that reinforce the raw wilderness feel, enhancing the adventure rather than detracting from it.

Overall, Martian Route provides a concise and memorable climbing experience that suits those looking for a technical touch in a stunning, accessible Colorado setting. Its blend of playful balance challenges and natural surprises make it worth a visit for climbers eager to sharpen their skills while soaking up the unmistakable local atmosphere.

Climber Safety

The second bolt is set high above the ground, which can place leaders in a runout position early on. Ensure you have confidence with sparse protection and use proper gear to minimize fall distances. Be cautious of the bird cave area, where loose debris or unexpected wildlife residue may affect grip.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid the full heat on the East Face during midday hours.

Bring climbing shoes with strong edging ability to manage delicate foot placements on small ledges.

Hydrate well—Garden of the Gods’ dry air can quickly dehydrate climbers.

Prepare mentally for a sparse bolt run, especially near the start of the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.8, Martian Route feels somewhat stiffer because of the higher-than-normal spacing between bolts and the emphasis on precise footwork. Its crux lies in managing balance-friendly moves on delicate holds rather than challenging strength, making it a rewarding climb for those comfortable with technical beta rather than just gym-style power.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by three visible bolts, likely fewer than the four mentioned in some guidebooks. Leaders should prepare for a runout start with the first clip positioned quite high. Toproping is feasible using the secure two-pin plus bolt anchor at the top, providing a safer option for practicing moves.

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Tags

small ledges
balance moves
bird cave
sparse protection
toprope possible
East Face
Colorado climbing